Around Cedar City Sept 29-Oct 2

 
My plans for an ambitious Lake Powell hiking/canyoning/packrafting loop were canceled fairly last minute when we realized that pretty much all the roads in the area will be washed out for quite some time as a result of the over-active monsoon season the southwest has been having this year. Fortunately, I was able to pivot pretty quickly to a trip to Cedar City for mineral collecting and fall colors with Ryan. As a bonus I would finally get to meet his UV light friend Bill and partner Rachel. Quite unusually I had rain much of the way across Nevada. As I drove through its gorge, the Virgin River was a chocolatey mess that had me wishing I brought a packraft. Eventually I arrived in late afternoon, giving us a chance to head out for some afternoon scouting at the Desert Mound pit (aka the toilet bowl) and tailings piles where we did not find too much of interest. We then drove further on to check out a few roadside tailings at Iron Mountain (more promising with some magnetite and apatite) and then drove to the top for a stellar view of the surrounding desert. We poked around at some of the summit diggings before being chased away by rain. We had a nice social evening.



The next day we started around midday with a wildcard option of driving south to check out some old mines at Silver Reef near Hurricane. Somewhere here (10 mile radius...) there was supposed to be an occurrence of hydrozincite and calcite that made very showy UV specimens but the geology did not really seem to match this type of mineralization and we did not see much more than some copper stains. A day and a half in, I had surprisingly few rocks to show for all the looking. We drove back towards Iron Mountain to check out a hillside quarry we were interested in. This proved to be one of the most interesting sites we visited with an enormous 150 ft high cut face exposing some breccia filled in with magnetite veins and pockets. We found interesting calcite crystals, magnetite crystals, lilac/pink fluorescing apatite, and Ryan found several stellar gemmy apatite crystals to 1.5" loose on the scree slopes. We had fun collecting here but never returned at night which I am sure would be the real reveal. Dinner at the Chinese buffet in town and then more UV mineral collecting at the "saddle" locality of the Armstrong Mine tailings. This surprised us with fantastic multicolor specimens.



Coming off a particularly late night with a UV mineral collecting hangover, our plans for the third day materialized slowly but eventually settled on a big day of an 8.5 hour trip into a deep mine, then more post-dark UV collecting. I packed and organized as efficiently as I could. This was my second time into this mine, this time going deeper down to the 850' level. The shattered timbers, collapsed shafts, vertical ladders with missing rungs held together with nails and occasionally paracord, dizzying downward views of hundreds of feet, and boxes of dynamite still left a strong impression, even if some of the first-time fear and adrenaline was quieter this time. As before I was thoroughly impressed by the complexity of the mine, sketchy chaos, well-preserved mining artifacts, and dazzling ore minerals. A highlight for me was exploring the attic area at the 350' level that had some of the most incredible multi-colored and multi-patterned rock I have ever seen. This time around it took us nearly 3 hours to carefully climb back up the network of ladders, the mid-ladder squeezes being much more notable obstacles on the way out. Really just an incredible place overall. 







After exiting the mine under the stars, we walked back to the car and drove on to check out two more UV mineral locales. A little north of the Harrington-Hickory Mine, we scoured hillsides and tailings for bright blue fluorescing hydrozincite, sometimes with bright orange calcite and neon green chalcedony. We then checked out the Rebel Mine, which had some incredible day-glo orange calcite and calcite-aragonite brecciated crystal pockets. The collecting was great but I easily lost enthusiasm around 2am. We stopped in at a remote 24 hour diner, clearly disappointing the bleary-eyed employee working the graveyard shift. After a meal it was more driving, a shower to remove the thick layer of dust and grim, and then a hard crash into bed.

The last day we had another slow start owing to our previous big day and night. We sorted out our rocks and pressure washed them clean on the driveway. 285 lbs ended up being my final tally to bring back home. In the late afternoon all four of us piled into Bill's truck and drove through Cedar City, up Cedar Canyon, and up onto the 10000' elevation Markagunt Plateau for some fall color leaf peeping. We stopped at the roadside Duck Lake for some fiery reflections (frontispiece), then onto the west side of Navajo Lake where Ryan and I flew our drones over the colorful aspens. With the light nearly played out here, we drove on to the east side of the lake for another flight over the aspens interspersed with conifers and lava. I had been wanting to see a good fall color show for some time and this happily scratched that itch.



In the morning we loaded up and said our goodbyes, everyone headed out three different directions. I huge thanks to Ryan for hosting a few fun days of fossicking, Rachel for hospitality, and Bill for driving us around. For Plan B it was a great and sorely needed getaway before I plunge into the meat of the academic quarter.

Kelso Dunes Sept 25-26

 
Another quick solo getaway out to the Mojave, I leave the photos to do most of the talking. I had great clouds, a bright full moon, and a quiet night. Eventually the temperatures cooled to pleasant.



In the morning I hiked barefoot to the top of the tallest point in the Kelso dunefield, a more strenuous exercise than I anticipated. I enjoyed the wide variety of tracks along the way including sidewinders. I enjoyed the vast views while catching my breath at the summit as well as triggering some sand avalanches and getting the sand to bark with big jumps. Going down was effortless. 





I got a few nice views of crags as I drove past the Granite Mountains along the Kelbaker Road. It was a quick trip but some nice sights.


Bristol Mountains Sept 15-16

 
Craving a quick desert escape despite punishing heat, I packed Spartan to go visit a rock collecting site I was last at when I was 18. It was also a chance to stretch my new Subaru's offroad muscles a bit. I left pavement in the afternoon near Ludlow, drove north towards Broadwell Dry Lake, then turned east on a pleasantly graded powerline/pipeline road. There wasn't a lick of shade but distant puffy clouds. Eventually the road turned very sandy, having me test the deep snow/mud Xmode, which helped but also was less responsive than I expected. Sections were two-rutted in deep sand such that I could not stop and had to maintain speed to avoid getting stuck; it reminded me of the old Disneyland Autopia ride where the track was essentially driving me and the steering wheel served no purpose. Thankfully the sand abated and the road improved. I was treated to nice views of the Kelso Dunes once I breached the saddle and began a gradual descent into the broad basin. It was a punishing 104F when I stepped out of the car and began my hike up the wash to the old strawberry onyx mine that I used to love collecting at with my dad when I was a kid.


Arriving at the mine camp, I was delighted to see the unusual flat-roofed mining shack was not only still standing, but actually had been repaired since my previous visit when I was 18. It is a novel design, made of stacked railroad ties with a chickenwire-concrete roof. I had very little recollection of the onyx collecting area itself, so enjoyed walking over the nearby hillside looking at the discarded rocks and outcrops. It is still a mysterious deposit with a roughly 2 acre deposit of layered carbonate tilted about 25 degrees to the southwest, seemingly bounded by pyroclastic volcanic rocks on all sides. My best guess from a cursory look is some sort of surficial hydrothermal deposit with an algae/cyanobacteria component based on some of the rock textures. Anyway I was mostly distracted by the beautiful banded strawberry onyx, which was focused in two bands. It was nice to see there was plenty of material scattered around to enjoy.


Note same corner as photo below

Self-processed and printed B&W from when I was 18


I caught a beautiful sunset from the top of the onyx hill looking northeast towards the Kelso Dunes (frontispiece). After dark I was delighted to look around the onyx area with a UV light, discovering at least a half-dozen scorpions in the process. A subset of the honey-colored onyx had a vivid emerald green fluorescence that was fun to look for. It seemed I could potentially have been the first person that thought to search this site for UV rocks. I killed a good chunk of the night just looking around and enjoying the cooler nighttime temperatures before cowboy camping in the nearby wash.


In the morning I looked around a bit more and then headed out before the heat of the day set in. It was a quick but rewarding escape with a nice combo of nostalgia, a light solo adventure, and some neat rocks. A bit premature but had me excited to do some more desert exploring this winter.

Flanks of the Kern Sept 4-7

 
Recently I have had reason to spend some time in the greater Kern River area, prompting me to revisit some locations I had not been in nearly two decades and to search out some new interesting things to do in the area. Since I typically go to the Kern during boating season, I found the river particularly low and slow-moving and instead looked more to the flanks of the river.

In the headwaters of the Tule River just west of the Kern is the Alder Creek Sequoia Grove, well off most people's radar but with some impressive trees on a steep hillside. The area partially burned in the 2020 Castle Fire (among others) but the core of the grove remains a verdant island of giants. Notably the Stagg Tree here is apparently the fifth largest tree in the world and is estimated at about 3000 years old.

Poppy Lake in 2020 Castle Fire
Stagg Tree (5th largest tree in the world)
Alder Creek Grove (and below)

Dome Rock is a short dirt road detour off of CA-107 that offers expansive views over the Kern including the Needles. Nearby a short hike leads to Nobe Young Falls, which has a neat shaded alcove behind it, perfect for a picnic.

The Needles from Dome Rock
Nobe Young Falls
Heather and I hiked 2 miles out to the site of the Needles Fire Lookout, which has become a very popular hike it seems. I have fond nostalgic memories of the lookout on a June 2008 climbing trip with Jeff and Richard. After climbing some of the walls of the Needles, we stopped by the lookout. Beyond the amazing view and remarkable strapped-to-a-rock construction, we were greeted by a cheerful volunteer living in the lookout (watching for fires) baking fresh cookies on the wood-burning stove. Unfortunately the lookout was completely destroyed by an accident involving that same stove in 2011, leaving behind a stairway to nowhere. The hike did not have quite the same appeal as before between the many people on the trail and the lack of the lookout, but the views were still great including views of the backside of Mt Whitney and the backside of Farewell Gap in Mineral King. I was grateful I got to see it before.

Needles from lookout site
Needles Lookout site (2026). Mt Whitney at left skyline
Needles Lookout in 2008 (before 2011 fire)

Heather and I also did an interesting drive on a neglected Forest Service Road 23S16 south of Johnsondale. Despite being paved, it was overgrown to the point of being barely one-lane, with many logs nearly blocking the road. For being Labor Day, we saw nearly no one on this forgotten road traversing interesting chapparal and scraggily forest. We stopped briefly to check out Indian Rock labeled roadside on the topo, which indeed had several old mortar grinding pits in the granite slab there. We took a detour near Baker Point to what I previously identified as a digging, stumbling across a very cool rose quartz claim. Though limited in area (60ft x 30ft), the colors and patterns were spectacular.



We hiked about a mile out to Baker Point Lookout, one of the few remaining fire lookouts in the area (frontispiece and below). Looking a little weather-worn and neglected, it was nonetheless interesting to look inside and to enjoy the views from its surrounding catwalk including of Lake Isabella, Kernville, and Mt Whitney again.


Baker Point Lookout (and below)

Continuing on we drove more of 24S16 past meadowlands, then down the dirt road of 24S15. On the way I stopped to check out the Tip Top Mine, which turned out to be an old quartz lode gold occurrence. All in all this Greenhorn Mountain area was more interesting than I expected and I look forward to checking it out further in the future, particularly to see another fire lookout and some potentially interesting marble outcrops.

Dry Meadow

Osgood Creek Aug 24

Our third canyon to round out our time at Jervis Inlet was Osgood Creek, which some alleged was the best. We knew it would be a big day between the 3.2 mile roundtrip paddle, 2 mile bushwhacking approach, and bonus 0.6 mile bushwhacking exit. As we started paddling northeast along the coast, sunbeams through thick clouds and silvery shimmers of waves gave way to sun. Once again we had a headwind but thankfully much more manageable intensity than the previous day. My shoulders were sore from the previous day such that I felt like I was dragging an anchor as I paddled. On the way we spotted some red pictographs high up on a cliff and a sea otter clambering up into the forest at the sight of us. It took us about an hour to get to the mouth of Osgood, and quite a bit more time to get the boats settled to start hiking.



The forest hiking was easily the worst of the three approaches with the oldest overgrown logging roads giving us dense regen to wade through. The technical canyon section ended 0.6 mile up from the ocean so we had bonus approach and exit. I mostly led the way through some washouts, past an old rusty shell of a car, and up some steep slopes. Once again it was obnoxiously humid and sweaty in the forest. Near the end the bushwhacking only got worse, at one point sending us through a dense stand of 3" diameter trees that felt like we were squeezing through prison bars. After covering 1.9 miles ascending 1200 ft in 1hr45min (good considering), we finally arrived to the start of the canyon. After a deserved snack break, we suited up for the descent.


Overall I found Osgood to be a mixture of styles between Soda and Seshal, and relatedly it ended up being my second favorite canyon. It had more greenery and was more enclosed than Seshal, but also had some lengthy boulder sections that broke up the good bits. There were some logs to traverse, some jumps, and even an interesting slab of rock that formed a brief cave-like section. 





The clear standout feature was a 40ft steep chute slide with two slight bends in it that rocketed us cleanly into the biggest pool in the canyon (frontispiece). Nearly everyone lapped this two or three times because it was that good (Osgood As It Gets" the first descenters named it).  



At one point I got into the lead position and was constantly rope or carabiner poor which was a bit silly. Kenna and I checked out something that seemed like a borderline slide (perhaps a bit too rough with mid-slide drops and turns?). Kenna went for it with ragdoll results that looked unpleasant; I tried a slightly different line but ended up similarly thrown around so we made everyone else rappel. Later I noticed the beta said this had been slid but would result in the slider being a human pinball! As we neared the end of the technical canyon we had one excellent 33ft jump then a scenic but very slippery rappel. The last rappel was supposed to be off a log, now absent, so we improvised with a meat anchor and me rappelling off a meager little rock arch. We soon recognized the side stream where we crossed the creek on our approach so we desuited for the hike back down. After a little more than three hours and about 13 rappels we were through the canyon. 




The paddle back to camp took about 40 minutes, despite me hugging the coast to try to catch as much shade as possible since the sun was perfectly positioned to blind and burn me. Pulling into camp was jolting to the senses as the other group of canyoners had arrived. Eleven people, enormous tents, four full-size coolers, a propane grill, music, !Starlink!, hammocks blocking our path to water, and gear on our clothesline; though friendly, it was hard not to feel invaded and our little wilderness retreat turned into a car camping weekend. Though I'm sure we had common interests and probably could have made a useful connection or two, I had no interest in socializing with them given the circumstances.



We had an early final day packing ahead of an 8am water taxi pickup that the boat captain was actually early for, and a smooth ride along the inlet back to the dock. The rest of the travel went as smoothly as it could. We said our goodbyes to Lukas and Suhei, and new friends Jack and Kenna on the ferry. The border crossing only took about 5 minutes coming back which was a relief. There was enough warm sun to dry out my gear on the Weidert's back patio, which was appreciative for airplane packing. At one point Ryan and I went out with his dad on their boat to drop some shrimp traps. Later we had a nice meal outside including a stellar homemade cobbler. The following morning I was on my way back home.

Thanks to Lukas for the impetus for this British Columbia canyoning adventure, to Heather and Ryan for the airport pickup and driving, to Ryan's parents for their memorable hospitality, to Ryan and Keith for the gear loans, and to everyone in our group for making such a fun and awesome team (Lukas, Suhei, Keith, Rob, Jack, Kenna, Ryan). While I think I still prefer the style of South Island canyons, it was nice to get a taste of these Pacific Northwest canyons and to realize just how much is still unexplored in the region.