Comb Ridge April 15

The Big Canyon/Little Colorado trip ended up being more strenuous than anticipated so plans for further backpacking in Grand Gulch were dropped. Sara seemed to have her fill of adventure for the time being so we opted for a quick explore of Comb Ridge on our way home. Although I had driven through the impressive monocline several times, I was usually in a hurry to get somewhere else and an opportunity to explore never presented itself. It's a fascinating place. Canyons are carved into the monocline's sandstone dip slope such that canyons start small as you walk up, gradually build to tall vertical walls, and then eventually open up and end at a 600ft cliff with long views to the west. The canyons are closely spaced, hence the appropriate name of Comb Ridge.

Most of these canyons have potholes where water accumulates and deep overhangs, which were perfect for early habitation. Most of canyons contain well-preserved evidence of former occupation- dwellings, graneries, kivas, grinding stones, petroglyphs, pictographs, pottery, and ancient ears of corn.

Using a vague hand-drawn map, we set off to find Hidden Ruins, one of the least visited and best preserved cliff dwelling in the area. We crossed the brushy Butler Wash on cattle trails and walked the slickrock ramp adjacent to a canyon until we found a good place to climb down. We ended up finding an excellent collection of dwellings under a long overhang. This was not the canyon we were looking for but we enjoyed carefully exploring nonetheless. We climbed up onto the slickrock to the north this time and cross-countried over to the next canyon. Just as we came to the precarious edge we spotted the ruins we were looking for in the far wall of the canyon.

What an incredible ruin! I have not seen anything quite like it. The architects and builders had found just about the most inaccessible alcove they could find- 30ft down a 200ft vertical cliff. To access it they had to create Moki steps (carved footholds) down and across the steep slickrock. A misstep could easily mean a 200ft plummet. Yet something motivated them to create a well-designed 6-room dwelling in this lofty perch. It's easily one of the best preserved ruins anywhere, whether because of shelter from people, animals or elements I have no idea.

Hidden Ruins (note faint Moki steps to the right of the ruins)

While we had an excellent view of the ruins, we had a 200ft across by 200ft deep gash in the earth between us and it, so we headed back down the slickrock ramp looking for a place to cross to the other side. We had to go quite a long way down before we finally found a place to scramble into the canyon and climb back up the other side. Before too long we were perched on the slickrock above the ruins. A faint trail of Moki steps dauntingly poured over the sloping edge into oblivion. It looked suitably sketchy that I attached some webbing to a scrubby juniper as a handline (unfortunately I didn't bring a rope). It was not as bad as it looked getting to the first alcove to the side. However getting to the main ruin looked heinous! A very exposed 15ft traverse on uninspiring handholds was necessary. I wasn't feeling very lucky and decided that was as far as I wanted to go that day. I still got a good enough view of the ruin to enjoy it.

Back to the car we drove a bit further down the Butler Wash Road, finding a nice camp spot for the night next to cottonwoods. Thanks to Sara.

Big Canyon/Little Colorado April 13-14

The second time was barely the charm for this trip. Jeff and I had planned to do this trip a couple months before but we knew it was going to be a big day on the heel of three other big days before so canned it for later. With Sara the plan was to do the trip as an overnight trip- hike down Salt Trail Canyon to the Little Colorado, ditch all but  canyoning gear, hike back up and across to Big Canyon, descend Big Canyon back to the river, camp by the river, and then return up Salt Trail Canyon the next day. Although this meant more walking, we would not have to fuss around with large packs and drybags in the canyon, which for me always makes the canyon easier and much more enjoyable. Between Big Canyon itself and the unique creamy blue waters of the Little Colorado, this was said to be a classic trip with high bang for its 8000ft elevation gain/loss entrance fee. The flow of the Little Colorado was zero at the Cameron, AZ bridge which meant all the water would be coming from the karstic Blue Spring downstream and the Little Colorado should be in dreamy Caribbean blue mode.

        Top of the Coconino in Salt Trail, Little Colorado in distance

Following a very windy night we packed at the rim, carefully selecting out just what we needed and nothing more (in hindsight it would have been worth carrying more water). An easy stroll down the hill brought us through the Kaibab and Toroweap to the top of the Coconino. Here our cairned trail plunged down a steep and loose gully, zigzagging its way down a rare break in the resistant cliff forming unit. I could quickly tell the terrain was going to slow us down a lot more than I anticipated. It did not help that I overshot the trail in two spots requiring rougher cross-country travel to regain. What should have taken maybe twenty minutes took well over an hour. 

We fumbled to follow the trail at a few other places (it most stays high to the left) and I had a nice fall gashing a couple of my fingers pretty good. But eventually we made it down to the top of the Redwall where we crossed over the drainage to the right side and traversed narrow ledges and boulder piles at the side of the impressive Redwall narrows. We saw several collared lizards along here. Once within earshot of the Little Colorado, the route abruptly drops about 1000' through several cliff bands to reach a small campspot near the river. Sara was pretty tired by the time we reached the river, her footing not accustomed to such steep and loose terrain. We dropped gear and went for a soak in the opaque river.

        On top of the Redwall, about to drop to the river

Sara was not really feeling up to more hiking to reach Big Canyon and the day was getting on, but was willing to try. We made it to the top of the Redwall, most of the elevation killed but a small fraction of the total distance to the start of the canyon, before I called it as a poor idea. We took our time hiking back down to the river. I felt pretty defeated. The rest of the day was pretty uneventful other than me hiking up to the bottom of Big Canyon to get us some [barely drinkable!] water and the violent wind whipping up dust everywhere, including our tent. We went to bed early to give ourselves the possibility of a fresh try at Big Canyon early the following morning.

        View of the Little Colorado from the Redwall between Salt Trail and Big

We managed to get an early start, up by 5a and hiking by 6a, which gave us some hope of a Big Canyon trip. I carried all the weight and volume my pack could handle as we hiked up the steep slope to the top of the Redwall for the second, but not final time. We dropped our packs at the head of the Salt Trail Redwall narrows apart from the bare minimum needed to descend Big Canyon. I dreaded the long traverse on the far side of Salt Trail as it looked to be bouldery with discontinuous ledges. I was pleasantly surprised to find the travel easier going than the trail on the other side! The ledges were fantastic and we had a couple fresh footsteps to help us make good decisions. The early start gave us full shade until we reached the bench above the Little Colorado. Now it was time for sunscreen! We enjoyed the great views of the river and its travertine dams on this brief stretch before contouring back up into the Big Canyon drainage. The going got rougher here but we were still making decent time. We found an entry into the canyon bottom easily enough, and delighted at the easy travel down the sandy wash and its polished limestone surfaces, Eventually pools, complete with guardian frogs, began to appear, some harder to bypass than others. We had a snack and suited up. A bit more of the pools interspersed with scrambly wash gave way abruptly at an enormous chockstone with a deep and dark void beyond and the distinct sound of babbling water. The 60ft rappel drops right into the stunning Spring Room, a very special place. We sampled the various springs before filling our bottles up with the least foul tasting water.

        Spring Room (and below)

After the short swim we almost immediately reached the next drop, a pleasant chute waterfall, the first of four travertine falls we would rappel in this canyon. This was followed by a narrow flooded corridor which marked the end of the narrows and the last of the shade.

The second half of the canyon expanded greatly in width with three beautiful fanning travertine falls marking the last three obstacles. The pools between them were equally beautiful- greens and blues of many shades. We found good anchors left by the previous group at all the drops which greatly helped us on time. I had never been in a canyon quite like this with all of the travertine falls and pools. Who would have thought that this little gem was hiding here? The last rappel dropped us into the Emerald Pool, sometimes visited by hikers.

        Looking back at the end of the narrows and the third rappel

        Emerald Pool (and below)

It was suggested the Emerald Pool be the place to remove wetsuits but I knew there would be plenty of opportunities to cool down if we overheated and some more fun could be had with the final boulder scrambles and pools of Big Canyon, and the travertine dams down at the Little Colorado. This turned out to be a good decision as we found several places where waterfalls plunged down unseen voids between boulders, offering a much more interesting way to enjoy the boulder garden.

Once at the Little Colorado it was hard to resist a play in the travertine dams on the river. Despite the sizable flow and depth of the river, there are places where the travertine dams are continuous across the river, making for a remarkably easy crossing. It was hard to resist plunging into some of the spa-like pools.

Unfortunately the day was getting on and we had a long way left to go so we changed back at the Salt Trail camp and then hiked back up to our packs. The return out was unnoteworthy, but much smoother now that I know where the trail tended to be and to know how it was marked. We reached the last of the Supai ledges at the base of the Coconino scramble just at dark set in. We slowly made our way up the Coconino, breaking out into the moonlight once on top. A quick dinner at the car and we were ready for bed. I was very satisfied to be able to have seen this canyon. Thanks to Sara for digging deep to make it happen.

        Ascending the Redwall in Salt Trail Canyon, Little Colorado beyond

Lee's Ferry-Cathedral Wash April 12

After parting from Jeff, Jesse, and Mike I drove to Flagstaff to meet up with Sara for our share of adventures. Sara had been wanting to try a packraft trip but I had mentally vetoed the Water Holes Canyon trip I had planned as being too big of a trip to start with. A bit more research turned up the possibility of packrafting from Lee's Ferry (Grand Canyon Mile 0) to Cathedral Wash (Mile 3) without needing a permit. This stretch of river has a couple very minor riffles but is easily the least committing three miles of the canyon and would make an appropriate introduction. A leisurely morning in Flagstaff was followed by the drive north. We rented a second lifejacket from a friendly Joe at Kayak the Colorado in Marble Canyon and drove the last stretch to Lee's Ferry, start of virtually all Grand Canyon river trips.

Early season dense thunderclouds hung ominously above the Vermillion Cliffs. Very strong winds whipped up sand and dust into the eyes of those readying their rafts on the boat dock and we could clearly see waves on the surface of the river whipping upstream. Not ideal conditions! Fortunately it was just before lunchtime and we would only need a few hours for the trip so we waited in the car, packed and ready to go, for a break in the weather. It took an hour or two before things looked to have stably improved, the wind dying down to a manageable level and the dark clouds staying above the cliffs.

We mobilized, quickly inflating the packrafts and setting off from Lee's Ferry. I was tempted to shout a "see you at the bottom" to the rafters, but didn't. We quickly encountered the first very minor riffle. Sara was not getting the hang of rowing the Explorer 200 so I switched with her so she could paddle my Supai. Next up was Paria Riffle. I went through the meat of it which ended up being a little wet, otherwise the Explorer did fine and so did Sara in her Supai. We past tens of fishermen and their families lazily lounging on the shores of the river. Most seemed somewhat surprised to see us float past. A short distance downstream the cliffs began to rise and the beaches became discontinuous. We floated the last 1.5 miles in solitude- it was just us and the river. The ominous roar of the bigger riffle at the mouth of Cathedral was an obvious cue for our take out.

The boats quickly dried in the wind. We packed up and began hiking the very scenic Toroweap narrows of Cathedral Wash. The canyon had plenty of dryfalls and pools, but the nature of the excellent ledges in the canyon meant that you could always keep your feet dry and bypass dryfalls just by gaining a higher ledge. It was not challenging, but made for a very pleasant walk. As we ascended, the narrows became shallower and the canyon more wash-like. It took us about a half hour to get from the river to the road- this certainly wasn't the middle of the Grand Canyon where hiking out could take up to a full day!

Being Sunday afternoon there was plenty of trailer boat and fisherman traffic heading out but few cars heading in to Lee's Ferry which made hitching potential limited. We walked about 1.5 miles back along the road before scoring a ride with a friendly old couple from Morro Bay, CA and their pair of barky little dogs. Thanks to them we made it back to the boat ramp in time to return the lifejacket and drive to the head of Salt Trail Canyon for the next leg of our adventure. At a leisurely pace it took about 2.5 hrs from launch to road. A fun little trip!

150 Mile/Matkatimiba/Panameta April 7-10

This was the big one. Said by many to be one of the classic canyoning/hiking/packrafting loops in the Grand Canyon. A hike from the rim down 150 Mile Canyon, up Matkatimiba Canyon, looping through Panameta Canyon, crossing the Esplanade into and down Olo Canyon, packrafting the river back to 150 Mile, and then back up 150 Mile to the rim. At least that was the plan. Reality dictated otherwise as the other three just came off of a long trip, we tried to navigate the maze of north rim roads at dark, got a late start, and had two in the party relatively new to canyoning and completely new to Grand Canyon hiking. All those factors unfortunately played against us but we still managed a great trip with 3 canyons by cutting the supposedly spectacular Olo from our plans. Nevertheless the trip was amazing and I had a terribly hard time narrowing down photos for this post.

The trip really felt like it started with the drive in. It was dark shortly after we turned unto the long Mt Trumbull Road headed for the big ditch. Although we had good directions and a GPS with maps, the darkness worked against us resulting in a crucial junction being passed unnoticed. We then spent well over an hour trying to use other marked roads to get back to where we needed to, resulting in lots of backing up, u-turns, and even a pretty solid bottoming out for me. Eventually we retreated most the way back and found the right junction. By now we were tired and had learned just how difficult navigating these roads were at dark. We collapsed near a corral, ready to give it another go in the daylight.

After considerable time spent packing, we finally set off- this time finding the right road much easier. Jeff performed admirably piloting his low slung Honda Civic on the rough road. At one point we had to assist him so that his car could execute a diagonal teeter-totter. Very impressive. We made it to the rim sometime around 11am. Kaibab Limestone; Jeff and I knew what that meant, it would be a long way down to reach the Muav Limestone at the river. At least we seemed to a reasonably well-trod trail with some cairns. In only about a half hour we were down through the Coconino where the canyon levels out in the Kaibab. We boulder hopped and cactus avoided our way downcanyon. Some Supai narrows began to appear and provided excellent hiking on slickrock pavements with only a couple dryfalls to bypass.

The Supai narrows briefly abated before we reached the obvious start of the Redwall. Fortunately the route description became quite helpful here and we quickly found the abseil point into the canyon on the true left and the climbing route that would be our exit in several days time. I had to admit the abseil looked pretty intimidating- a razor-sharp prow of Redwall bulging into a black void below. After adding some webbing I went down first- not as bad as it looked. The rest followed and we were on our way. A couple turns in the corridor and it was time to put our wetsuits on.

        About to execute the first abseil into 150 Mile

We suited up at the first chockstone rappel. There was a total of six of these rappels that we would have to get back up on our return. Rather than carry 300ft of extra rope to leave on these drops we set up paracord loops through the anchors which reached the bottom of the drop so that when we returned to them we could tie on our rope and hoist it up and back down like a flagpole. These little pieces of paracord were our only escape option so we left a "do not remove or we will die" note on the first and last just in case someone happened to come this way after us.

The canyon quickly exceeded my expectations. Far from being just the commuter route I thought it was, 150 Mile turned out to be extremely beautiful and a definite highlight. Classic creamy white water-sculpted Redwall below and golden weathered Redwall above. A narrow echo-y slot with pools almost the whole length, surprisingly long and sustained narrows. Temperature: perfect.

Past the sixth chockstone rappel we hit the nice striped layer 2/3 of the way down the Redwall, making for beautiful patio sections. One more section required a bypass, then the pools gave way to more gravel wash and boulders. We de-suited and ditched the excess gear we did not need until the way back up. Further down we had to take an impressive 1/4mi long bypass that took us on a wild ride along narrow ledges well over a hundred feet above the canyon floor before a rock chute eventually led us down. We accidentally cornered a frightened mountain goat kid surprised to see us- we stopped and watched his impressive climbing skills as he backed himself onto a dead-end ledge, then took an impressive leap and ran off over the rough terrain and out of sight. More bouldery streambed led us to the top of the Muav narrows just as dark set in. Here we made a crucial mistake...

The information we had suggested three options: (1) go down the Muav narrows to the 150 Mile mouth which involved at least three obstacles including a 35ft rappel, 30ft rappel and 10ft drop, (2) take a short bypass on a narrow ledge to find a key place near the canyon mouth where it was possible to downclimb vertically with some difficulty, and (3) a long and rough 3/4mi detour on ledges and slopes to a place where the river's edge could be accessed. The first two options sounded horrible and potentially unsafe in the dark so we opted for the third. If only we chose the first! Hindsight would have showed that the 35ft rappel was clean and easy and the two remaining obstacles were nothing like they were described by the beta- easily downclimbable or upclimbable and no water to necessitate wetsuits. We would have been at the river with our choice of camp spots in 20 minutes. Woe is us! Instead we had a late night death marched over loose and trailess boulder piles as we kept wondering whether we had gone 3/4 mi (which of course we hadn't). This traverse wore us out to the point of frustration but eventually we reached the gully that took us to the river. With a little searching I found a few flat patches of sand at the base of the cliff, so we called it a night.

        Camp I

Morning revealed this to have been the best camp in a 1/4mi radius so it was quite fortunate we found it the night before. As if mocking all of our efforts so far, an enormous powered raft cheerfully floated past effortlessly, followed by a group of rafters. It felt like a parade, except we were the show. Groggily we packed, inflated boats and set off upriver to the place we would be able to cross the current of the river and land on the south side. We then deflated the boats, packed, and hiked up onto cactus laden benches above the river, headed for Matkatimiba Canyon. Fortunately as we headed toward the canyon (and Matkat Hotel below, a popular rafter camp) the trail became very well defined and we made great time.

We took a mandatory stop in the shade of the Matkat patio and discussed our options. If we all wanted to get on the road at a reasonable time on Friday we would do well to be out of the ditch and back at our cars by the end of Thursday. We just did not have the time for the full trip we proposed with the pace we were currently making. It took some indecision and weighing of options but we eventually decided to pass on the loop through Olo and instead proposed a third day which would take us through Panameta Canyon and then back to the mouth of 150 Mile- this was the only way I could see us getting out in a day as the packraft setup/breakdown would suck precious time from us and the climb out would be long and exhausting. It was disappointing not to see Olo, but I was looking forward to Panameta, especially without packs! This new plan instantly made out current day 2 the rest and recover day so we had a leisurely lunch at this great spot. Some nude sunbathing was even had by a nameless individual- the rest of us hoped for a group of surprised rafters to suddenly appear.

The hike up Matkatimiba was incredibly pleasant. Any canyon that has running water, and beautiful pools but lets you keep your feet dry is alright by me. Although the sun was high we were in the shade most of the time due to the incredibly sinuous nature of the canyon. Six full canyon meanders up we reached a good looking camp spot next to a few plunge pools and the only pool in the canyon requiring wading. We dropped packs and explored up to the junction of the two Matkat branches- we had found the best camp spot. It was only 2-3p by this time so we each chose how we wanted to spend it. I carved out a choice spot and take a nap, Mike jumped into our pool, Jeff climbed to a lofty perch. After, we all watched the evening's entertainment- frogs! They were everywhere and determined to let all of their neighbors and potential mates know exactly where they were. They sounded like geese, donkeys, ducks, aliens- everything but frogs. The chorus was incredible, easily one of the most memorable highlights of the trip. As we ate dinner we tried to spot them when they were croaking and observed how they jockeyed for positions. Fortunately I brought earplugs which were essential to combating the deafening echoes of the frog chorus. I have no idea how the others managed to sleep!

        Pool near camp

        Jeff's eye view of Camp II

The frogs were still going to some extent when we awoke but most of the noise responsibilities had been passed on to the dawn chorus of birds. We packed all of our things into the hood of my pack and Jeff's haul bag and slung the rest around us. By going light we were going to be able to make the best time and enjoy the canyon to its fullest. Off we headed up the south arm of Matkat. A couple dryfalls to navigate but otherwise pleasant and easy travel through some nice remote canyon. The exit out of the canyon could not have been more obvious- a boulder jam thoroughly blocked travel further upcanyon. We walked very well defined wild burro trails on top of the Redwall around to the head of the north fork. We were certainly getting a great diversity of views in on this trip.

Panameta turned out to be a very nice canyon, one of the wetter Redwall slots I have been in. It had  fresh mudlines on the walls indicating a flash flood recently. A few footprints post-dated this flood which I was happy about as it probably meant we would find good anchors at all the abseils which would save us a lot of time. The canyon had several swims and even a couple jumps. One of the more picturesque drops was a nice chute rappel with a freehanging chockstone in front. The middle of this canyon had a really nice pool-drop-pool-drop section that was lots of fun and even required a meat anchor and shallow jump to get us down. The grand finale for the canyon was a big 100ft rappel with a very awkward start from a hole behind a freehanging chockstone surrounded by a false floor. Unfortunately I spent probably 10+min de-tangling our paracord pullcord. Happily once at the bottom the pull worked well. One more short drop took us to the obvious end of the canyon, and a short distance further the perfect changing rock.

We made good time back down the north branch to camp, collected out things and headed for the mouth of Matkat. We changed, watered and recovered our stashed gear at the patio, then strolled down the short, but stunningly beautiful Muav narrows of Matkat to the canyon's mouth where Matkatimiba Rapid roared.

We spent a bit of time scouting the best way to tackle this rapid in our small boats. We came to a consensus that the least mayhem would be produced by a run down the right of the tongue, where there was a narrow strip of safety between rocks and a packraft swallowing hole. This line would keep us clear of the meat of the enormous wave train below the main tongue. Unfortunately this meant we had to get to the other side somehow. I found that above water and barely underwater ledges were continuous upstream of the Matkat mouth which allowed us to put-in several hundred feet above the rapid, plenty of room to position ourselves however we wanted. We set the line-up: Mike, Jeff, Jesse, me. All made it through easily and had a good ride in the process.

        My raft buried in the rapid (photo by Jeff)

We said hello to two private groups of rafters at the Matkat Hotel. We had been the first packrafts they had seen in 20+days on the river. When we were offered leftovers by these friendly folks it was impossible to say no. Soon we were gathered around their table enjoying shepherd's pie, cake, PBR, and even frosting on spoons! They were a merry bunch and we were sorry to have to turn down their offer of camping with them- tomorrow would be long enough! Meanwhile Mike sneakily (and boldly) secured us another beer from the other group for our dinner later. We waved our goodbyes and floated onward through this peaceful stretch of canyon. It was now nearing dusk but we had no concerns as there were no obstacles until Upset Rapid just past our take-out.

Gifts of the river gods: shepherd's pie, beer, cake, frosting on spoons

We found a good place to take-out and found excellent camping and staging areas near the mouth of 150 Mile. Our gear was set-out to dry as we got on to dinner. I slept soundly on a comfortable bed of soft sand beneath an overhang near the river. Excellent hiking, canyoning, packrafting- it had been a most satisfying day.

        Camp III near Upset Rapid

The climb out from the mouth of 150 Mile had looked heinous in the flashlight-shadowed light of the night before, but in daylight we could at least see that the bottom was clearly the crux and the rest just exposed. Jeff and I explored up the Muav narrows to the base of the 35ft rappel- if only we had gone this way on our way down! One by one we climbed up the exposed climb with Upset Rapid roaring in the distance. Once up we snapped a group photo while trying to scout a packraft route through Upset (luck would probably be involved!).

        Muav narrows of 150 Mile

We then found the narrow ledge we were meant to take as the bypass previously- wonderfully sketchy with loose rocks consistently being kicked into the 60+ft depths of the narrows below us. We then returned back up 150 Mile the way we came, or at least intended to. We made the crucial mistake of missing the long 1/4mi bypass which only became obvious once we encountered an unfamiliar dryfall. Rather than the obvious solution of going back to find the bypass, we decided to try our luck climbing around this dryfall. Although somewhat exposed we found two easy ways to do this only to realize there should be another (presumably unclimbable) dryfall further. The bypass trail was 100ft above us, with lots of sketchy rock and cliff bands between us and it. We went for it...carefully. There were a few tense moments but we were soon back on track.

        Narrow ledge above Muav narrows

        Exposed climbing to reach the bypass trail we accidentally bypassed

Escaping up to the bypass trail

Reversing the technical narrows turned out to go pretty smoothly as one person was ascending the others passed packs up a loose end of the rope. The canyon was no less pretty this second time around. The last climb out of the narrows was straightforward after the sketchier climbing earlier. We collapsed in the shade at the head of the Redwall narrows while our gear and wetsuits dried to a crisp in the sun.

        Last climb out of 150 Mile Redwall narrows

We rested about an hour in the shade which cunningly was enough time to make almost the entire rest of the hike out in the shade. On the way a rattlesnake kindly told us where he was. We put in our time, reaching the car at the last pastel colors of sunset. This gave us enough time to get out of the roughest part of the roads with light. Make at Mt Trumbull Road the allure of someone else making food was too great and we drove on to Kanab with high hopes. Unfortunately options were few by the time we reached it so we suffered through some gas station Wendy's before setting off to camp. In the morning we parted ways. Thanks to Jeff, Mike and Jesse for a great trip.