West Coast Fieldwork Nov 27-Dec 2


With Fiordland fieldwork a success, we drove on to our West Coast targets with the quickest grocery stop possible at the burgeoning cesspool of Queenstown. The Martyr River outcrop was quite different than previous configurations and portions of the outcrop had clearly eroded back tens of meters since I last visited. The exposure along the river was now eroded back such that the fault plane was right at river level, not much help for excavating. Fortunately the rest of the outcrop further up the slope was much more amendable and included a 6m by 12m exposure of a largely already exposed fault plane that was the subject of much of our work. Happily here too we found plenty of curved slickenlines to document. Despite the dramatically different outcrops my previous observations and interpretations largely held up, always appreciated! Sandflies were very tolerable. I enjoyed showing the others around including the view of Monkey Puzzle Gorge, the Cascade lookout at the end of the road, and Jackson Bay (even though The Cray Pot was closed). We settled in to the nightly routine of going to the only bar and restaurant in town, the Hard Antler, which fortunately did great meals.





We had one day where we ended up going through the effort of driving to the Martyr River but the rain was sufficiently strong that we deemed it unsafe to work beneath the precarious outcrop, and so retreated back to Haast. I decided to use the opportunity to go for a wet bush bash to explore some of the karst on Jackson Head. I struggled upward through some strongly woven kiekie/supplejack combos to eventually reach the hanging valley above. I documented numerous sinkholes, submergences, and resurgences but the most promising sink would have been a bit too dangerous to enter alone. The foggy bush was beautiful and the serenity was top notch, even if I was thoroughly soaking wet the whole time. Mysteriously near the top of the hill I found an apartment-sized chunk of high-grade schist, a hard thing to explain.




With our Martyr fieldwork successfully complete, we shifted to our last and most uncertain field area, the Haast-Paringa Cattle Track. This area probably had not been visited by geologists in decades (perhaps 40 years) but had a number of steep creeks that might give us the outcrop we wanted and at least one creek that had a good exposure in the past. After quite a lot of unneeded confusion, we eventually found the right place to meet the helicopter pilot at the half-pipe in the bush next to the Whakapohai River. In two shifts we shuttled us and our gear around the low clouds into a drizzly Maori Saddle Hut. Unlike Hokuri Hut, we would have this hut to ourselves the whole time. It was a surprisingly unique and tidy wooden tongue-and-groove hut built in 1980 and notably featuring a triple-decker bunk bed. I did not know what to expect but travel on the Haast-Paringa Cattle Track was excellent once we tossed and cut some of the windfall- wide, well-graded, and cliff-hugging. There were a few slippery creeks to cross. Chasm Creek had one of the more impressive swingbridges I have seen anywhere in New Zealand and could not have been much older than a year or two.






Between our time and the weather forecast finally closing in on us, we really only had two days to explore before being pulled out on the cusp of a large storm. We spent the first day looking in Summit Creek where there was an outcrop decades before but found little of what we hoped. We found a sequence of glacial silts tens of meters thick, a bizarre occurrence given the terrain and our height on the range but nevertheless unhelpful. For our last day we came up with a new strategy and decided to explore the southwestern tributaries of Chasm Creek. Here we did find a fault exposure, albeit one with weird kinematics and recorded it for posterity. On a further gamble Russ and I ventured up the steep and intimidating Chasm Creek, eventually finding one of the very best bedrock-on-bedrock exposures of the Alpine Fault anywhere (frontispiece; left side Australian Plate, right side Pacific Plate). We all worked on the various outcrops in this area for a good amount of time. Though the exposure was spectacular, the outcrop was not really amenable to large exposures of the fault plane itself. Though we were unable to record any curved slickenlines, we all were a little jazzed to find a new exposure of the plate boundary.



The flight out from Maori Saddle Hut was on the cusp of the approaching storm and one of the rougher flights I have ever had. We stopped for a meal in Fox and found Whataroa had fallen on hard times- their pub and main hotel being closed. We drove on to Greymouth, effectively getting me there a day earlier than planned. We all had a nice last celebratory meal at the Monteith's Brewery. And now of course the rest of the work begins, compiling field notes, photos, and forming our interpretations. A huge thanks to Russ, Tim, and Jesse. It was some of the most enjoyable fieldwork I have done and I am looking forward to working on the results with them.

Hollyford Fieldwork Nov 22-26


There was plenty to look forward to with this string of Alpine Fault fieldwork that got me back into the country for the first time since the COVID-19 pandemic. I was genuinely excited to revisit some old haunt field areas from my PhD with new, slightly more enlightened eyes, to have the opportunity to work with and learn from three new colleagues in the field, and our Marsden funding which meant plush meals, hotel rooms, and helicopters a plenty instead of my typical semi-dirtbag approach to fieldwork. November and December can be a risky time for West Coast fieldwork but by the end of it we managed to have on average three good weather days for every lousy day, which was certainly as good as we could hope for and meant we were overall quite productive. In a nutshell our project was to examine slip surfaces of the Alpine Fault to document the scratches (aka slickenlines) produced by earthquake movement; recent observations and a paradigm shift in understanding suggest that if we observed curves in these scratches we could use the sense of curvature to infer the direction the past earthquake approached the location (i.e. did the earthquake start further south or further north). It would be the first time anyone has deliberately looked for evidence of past earthquake directivity on a plate boundary fault and we were excited to see what we might uncover. We all traveled together from Wellington, ferry and two days of driving to Te Anau, which gave us plenty of time to talk logistics, chat science, and discover music tastes. The loosey goosey days of helicopter aviation seemed to be in the past as we carefully packed our gear and weighed every last item to tally our total weight. Annoyingly our flight from Milford was put on hold as a tourist exiting a bus was given priority so they could make an extra buck with a walk-in customer. Eventually we flew down the axis of Milford Sound and took the familiar path over the Alpine Fault, crossing the John O'Groats and Kaipo valleys before landing on the shore of Lake McKerrow in front of Hokuri Hut, our base for the next several days. 



Day by day we refined our commute to the Hokuri Creek outcrop such that it was slightly different each day. We only walked the Hollyford Track once, finding that the shoreline was sufficiently low to walk along with better views and better travel. I was surprised to find the Hokuri three-wire bridge had an enormous log that had clotheslined it; while the integrity of the bridge seemed intact, crossing it was rather exciting as the closer you traversed to the log the more tilted the bridge became, eventually reaching about a 45 degree angle leaning you over the river. My typical creek right access was removed by erosion and so we found the best access to be to cross the creek (river really!) when it was low enough to be safe to do so. On a particularly wet day the creek was thoroughly swollen and we had to cross the walkwire and then do a bush bash to approach the outcrop from above. This day would have been great for packrafting the creek but we stayed busy with geology despite cold soaking rain. We shared the hut with others about half the nights, some visitors being more obnoxious than others.







The Hokuri Alpine Fault gully outcrop had of course changed from my last visit 6+ years ago, in some ways for the better, others for the worse. Nevertheless it gave us plenty of fault exposure to work with and we did our best to document exposures and then improve them to capture the most data possible. Curved slickenlines were abundant and from day one our fieldwork was a success. As I anticipated the uniquely plastic fault gouge at Hokuri Creek was a challenge to excavate and meant that we were often calf-deep in some sticky mire as we tried to collect measurements. I gained a little experience excavating with an archaeologist's careful precision, something I continued to hone over the course of fieldwork. Some of the slickenline interpretations could be tricky and so it was great to have three other pairs of discerning eyes to give each other reality checks.


We were sufficiently efficient in documenting everything possible that we ended up with a surplus day for me to hike out the length of one of the Hokuri terminal moraines; with the right material to date this could be one of the very best constrained slip rates on the Alpine Fault. Russ and Jesse joined me for this grueling bush bash over some very interesting topography. The lidar data I had in hand on a tablet was completely invaluable for navigation and getting to each location that might have a chance of exposure into the moraine interior. We followed the moraine crest in and out of four separate creeks that cut it looking for outcrop. At all but one location we dug into the soil cover to find only a gravel-boulder till, nothing to date. At the creek crossing I expected to be the least promising we actually found excellent exposure into the interior of the moraine! Most of what we saw was unsurprisingly more gravel-boulder till but we did find plenty of lacustrine silts and lenses of sand, which after a while we could interpret as being deposited between past moraine crests. We each had a good luck but unfortunately did not see any carbon we could date so I had to put all of my faith into a single OSL tube sample into the best sand horizon. With any luck hopefully this sample will provide a usable date. We had lunch in the stellar sun next to a beautiful creek. Returning we found a ridiculously well-cut track line that provided bush superhighway access back to Hokuri Creek. We crossed the creek at a spot that had interesting chunks of peat boulders, clearly able to be mobilized in moderate floods.



The last morning the helicopter picked us up on time and we worked our way over to Haast for our second base of operations. By all accounts it was very enjoyable and successful fieldwork, a great start to what was to come. 

Otaki River Nov 19


From Kaitoke I drove back into Upper Hutt to check messages and assess my packraft options for the day. I had a message that Martin had a group of five packrafters to do a fairly mellow section of the lower Otaki River at 10am. I decided in the space of a few minutes to join and drove the hour around to the other side of the Tararuas to arrive just in time. It would be a 7km/4.5mi Grade II run at 50cumec/1770cfs, after a short car shuttle and 2.5mi hike along the closed road to the Otaki Forks. There was a light drizzling rain on the hike in, once again shaping up to be a nice social outing. Looking down at the river from the road it was clear the river could take a whole lot more than the 50 cumec it currently had, but also looked like there would be good coverage at the current flow.


After a good amount of time waiting for everyone to get ready we finally pushed off just below the swingbridge at the forks. This was a considerably more stretch of river than the gorge run the day before, but there was some boulder dodging and riffles and a few good wave trains. The scenery was not quite up to the Hutt Gorge but was still much better than I expected. Interestingly the river seemed to be much colder than the Hutt. Without much incident we cruised down the river, making pretty good time. Our take-out was the second bridge. After a little hangout it was time to say adios and I drove right back around to the east side for a pleasant stay with Russ before our morning ferry departure. I did not manage to do a more adventurous overnight wilderness packraft trip like I had hoped but by the end of the weekend was very satisfied to squeeze in two different paddling runs and meet some neat people. Thanks again to Martin for helping connect me.



Hutt River Gorge Nov 18


The Friday forecast was for some solid rain and so I hoped to recruit some keen and capable packrafter for an epic upper Otaki River trip. The outlook seemed too uncertain for this though (too low or much too high both being possibilities) and so I went into the weekend with uncertain plans. It took some doing but eventually I managed to arrange a vehicle for myself and had a quiet camp in the rain at Kaitoke Regional Park on the east side of the Tararuas near the Hutt River Gorge. I slept diagonally in the shelled bed of the truck, cramped but thankful I wasn't any taller. In the morning I drove to the roadend and checked out the Rivendell Lord of the Rings filming location for the heck of it and checked out the river at the swingbridge. It certainly looked boatable! I drove into Upper Hutt to get WiFi and check messages. Local packrafter Martin said that there was a group of club kayakers that would be running the Hutt River Gorge at 10:30am. If I was ready to go at the put-in when they arrived and asked for Dean they would probably let me join. Seemed as good an option as any as running the semi-committing 5.5mi/9km Grade III+ gorge solo probably wouldn't be the best decision. I drove back to the put-in and had a good long time to get ready at the carpark. I saw some commercial rafters arrive, ready, and take off. They assured me the kayak group would soon arrive so I chilled once I was organized. Eventually the group of seven hardshellers arrived, I asked around for Dean, and with not too much hesitation directed at the random packrafter, I joined them on the brown tannin-tinged river. 

Dean was good value and was quite deliberate in looking out for me and giving me beta until he was convinced I could handle my own with the rapids. A few riffles led under a bridge under construction at the start of the gorge. Greywacke cliffs closed in and what followed was a diverse variety of bedrock and boulder rapids. It was surprisingly scenic and despite the lowish tame flows of 16cumec/565cfs was plenty of fun. There was an interesting log weir feature that they all took turns surfing. I was in no rush to embarrass myself but after some coaxing I joined in on the surfing and managed to stay dignified and upright. It was a very social trip.




There were some nice boulder garden rapids, toilet bowl hydraulics, and a couple nice boofs that followed. I settled into the style of the river and became quite happy reading and running at the front of the group. The greywacke cliffs, sunlit waters, and bright green forest complete with nikau palms made for a very scenic paddle for most of the length. At one point one of the kayakers challenged me, mentioning that he had never seen a packrafter catch a mid-rapid microeddy in a rapid coming up and wanted to see me try. Perhaps luck was a factor but I managed to maneuver perfectly into the small boat-sized eddy at a slight indent in the cliff, comfortably stall in the pillow of water, and then carve back into the remainder of the rapid, which was more than a little satisfying.








The scenery seemed to improve the further we went. After two relaxed hours the gorge relented and we reached the takeout. I wished the run was longer and probably would have loved the push of the flow being more like 30 cumec, but it was a beautiful, fun, and overall excellent day out and I was very grateful to join the cheerful group of locals enjoying their backyard run. In not much time I was back to my car, a drive to Upper Hutt for a solo dinner, then back to Kaitoke for another night of quiet camping.


Thanks especially to Martin for making contact and Dean for showing me the run.

Wellington Nov 13-16


It was my first time back in New Zealand since the covid pandemic with a busy schedule of a weeklong geology conference in Wellington, a journey down to do several weeks of Alpine Fault fieldwork, and then a bit of time to myself traveling, catching up with friends, and ideally getting up to some adventures. It was my first GSNZ conference since being a PhD student and so was a nice opportunity to catch up with many NZ geology folks, even if things had a sober undertone due to some of the geology departments being recently gutted and NZ academia struggling overall. My talk went well enough and I enjoyed the many conversations. I also finally got to see the Victoria tuataras out on display. I did not manage to make many evening plans with folks which meant I had the chance to use the long days to squeeze in some nice runs around the city. One evening I ran the city streets to Mt Victoria (4.5mi) for commanding views of the city and a few Lord of the Rings filming locations. Another evening I ran the other direction through the botanic gardens (impressive aloe collection!) to the Te Ahumairangi Hill lookout west of downtown for a nice sunset. I'm far from being a city person but Wellington is thoroughly tolerable thanks to its interesting terrain, easy walking, public art, open spaces, and great views. It was a pleasant week overall with my main stress being to arrange weekend plans before our ferry trip down south the following week.







Sycamore Canyon Oct 29


This is not the sort of short local hike I would usually bother writing something up about but what was only intended as a get-out-of-the-house hike turned out to be a pleasant surprise and a good reminder of the joys that can be found if you go looking. Heather and I set out for a short hike at Sycamore Canyon, one of the prominent open spaces in Riverside with granite hills cut by an arroyo network. Initially I was thinking of an out-and-back to check out an obscure palm oasis I had been to a few times. I navigated by phone to make out the right trail at several branches we encountered. Every gopher hole seemed to have a lizard darting into it. It was fairly windy. We followed the scratchy overgrown trail to the oasis where I was surprised at the loud sound of the creek below. Where I was expecting a trickle we encountered healthy spring flows, highly unusual this late in the year. We pivoted our plans to follow the creek down 2000ft to the next trail crossing where we could loop back. 


Along the way we passed by many excellent little cascading falls and knee-deep pools filled with hand-sized crayfish. The going was a little slow as we strove to keep our feet dry and dodge the occasional poison oak stand. Nearly every pool had at least a half-dozen colorful crayfish but I was surprised to see zero frogs. At one point we picked a fight with a crayfish which resulted in a weird staredown. At another point we saw impressively thick sycamore roots clawing their way at a dark pool.  





Travel was a little scratchy but after about 45 minutes we reached the trail crossing and beelined back to the trailhead. Honestly it was a much more enjoyable hike than the Kitchen Creek trip I did a couple weekends before and a nice reminder of some of the local treasures we have available to us.