Hahei-Hot Water Feb 9

Nestled between the Coromandel's two biggest tourist attractions (Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach) is a stunning bit of coastline that few apart from locals know about. I had drooled over it on Google Earth as it looked to be one of NZ's great bits of coasts, one I had particular interest in doing a coast traverse of. Islands, sea caves, spires, cliffs, crystal clear water. I got an early start from Auckland on a beautiful morning and put my kayak in the water at Hahei. Conditions were generally good, but there was complex wave interference at the headlands which demanded my attention. As I paddled along I took careful note of how I would traverse the coast in a wetsuit, counting up all the major and minor obstacles.

After rounding the first headland I crossed an open bay and passed between 50 m high spires. I continued along the coast to Te Pupuha Point where there was a very narrow gap between the rocks and a very large island. Rather than go around I waited patiently to time the waves and ride over the rocks on a rising swell without beaching myself on the rocks. Here the coastline got even more spectacular with several large cave entrances. The first one I paddled into had a boulder beach and a fantastic tree tree-lined skylight (frontispiece). I spent quite a bit of time here.

Further on was another impressive sea cave in which the landowner above had gone through considerable trouble to build stairs from the collapse entrance to the sea. Different shades of light permeated from the two entrances.

The weather was sunny and warm and I spent a very enjoyable couple hours cruising along the coast and exploring everything I wanted to. I saw lots of sea life and visited all the more impressive caves.

        The view looking towards Hot Water Beach

After many sights I reached the north end of Hot Water Beach. I had originally planned to end at the hot springs on the south end of the beach but could see from miles away that there were literally hundreds of people crowding the hot springs. I turned around and paddled back for the last point. Despite the wind and the swell I made it back to Hahei in less than an hour. Of particular amusement was a man driving a large tractor to the beach carrying a sofa with two small kids on it. A classic Kiwi beach day or the Coromandel!

In the end I decided it was perfectly reasonable to traverse the coast of foot on a calm day over low tide. There was a good mixture of rock climbing traverses, boulder hopping and the occasional swim and I could tell the coast would be a totally classic traverse. About 30 noteworthy obstacles and chances to take two shortcuts through headlands via sea caves. Wish I had someone I could talk into doing it with me. Maybe someday.

Lake Waikaremoana Feb 6

I spent a rainy night on the shores of Lake Waikaremoana, the North Island's deepest lake and one of the world's largest landslide dammed lakes. Fortunately the student camper fared well, repelling both wind and rain effectively. In the morning I hiked up to the top of the 600 m-high Panekiri Bluff, to get a view of the incredible landslide that dammed the lake only 2200 short years ago, supposedly by a subduction zone earthquake. While the bottom of the landslide broke up into large blocks and traveled several kilometers, the top of the landslide slid about 1.5 kilometers and stopped more or less as one large mass. The landslide dammed the valley upstream to a depth of 250 m to create a 54 km2 lake that has remained stable to date.

Everything to the right of the bay at left and the skyline ridge above is part of the enormous Waikaremoana Landslide.

I then went on the short Onepoto Caves walk, a short track through a fascinating area of talus caves, slots, and tomos on the landslide. Although none of the caves were too long, there was about a dozen that made nice throughtrips up to about 80 m in length beneath the track and a few with multi-levels to explore. I still think New Zealand has huge unrecognized talus cave potential. There were also some nice overhangs beneath enormous boulders with great views of the lake looking back towards Panekiri Bluffs (frontispiece).

Carrying on I then drove around the lake to take the back way to Rotorua, stopping for the occasional waterfall or view of the lake. The sub-horizontal mudstone layers have a tendency to create nice wide fanning waterfalls. I went for a quick paddle at the north end of the lake but the wind was strong so the conditions were not really that great. The backroads north of the lake passed through some lush rainforest, occasionally broken by a few Maori settlements. I was impressed at the number of horses set loose to graze on the road- presumably they know better than to wander off through the bush! It was an enjoyable drive on to Rotorua, then less so on the main highways to Auckland.

Mangatainoka Hot Springs Feb 4

A long drive from Dunedin to Wellington the previous day was broken up slightly by taking the scenic Port Underwood Road to Picton which passes through some nice Marlborough Sound bays and beaches, and by staying at a friend's in Wellington. I set off from Wellington at 9am after getting a rock chip in my windscreen fixed. Having already had a pretty thorough look at the things that interest me in the Waiarapa on previous trips, I drove on to Napier and inflated a innertube at one of the petrol stations. From Napier I navigated a maze of backroads to the end of the long dirt road past Puketitiri. Here there is a pleasant camping area above the Mohaka River, one of the North Island's few remaining wild rivers (no dams or diversions).

There is an immaculately maintained hot spring (Mangatutu) right next to the camping area and an even better one about 4 hrs walk up the Mohaka River (Mangatainoka). I had particularly wanted to visit Mangatainoka as it sounded like a very appealing hike and I had heard it was possible to raft or tube from the hot spring down the river back to the car park. Unfortunately it was 4:30p by the time I reached the road end. The weather looked stable (light drizzle) but I knew it would be raining heavily through the night and the following day. I weighed my options. Hiking to Mangatainoka would take more time than I had but I knew conditions would be lousy the following day. After a bit of personal deliberation, I decided to go for it. I packed a light pack with wetsuit, snack, water, headlamp, etc., strapped my innertube put on my running shoes, and set off on a brisk pace down the track. I felt confident that although I would be hard pressed to make it back to my car before dark, there should be ample places to ditch the river and regain the trail if needed, so I considered there to be a relatively low chance of disaster or benighting myself.

The scenery on my trail run was surprisingly good. The way I rigged my inflated tube to my pack worked amazingly well, apart from a annoying rubber squeaking noise with every step I took. I did my best to try to tune it out. The trail generally follows the true right bank but in places climbs high above to skirt above bluffs. Some of the stretches of river looked like they had fun (and potentially challenging) rapids for tubing. At least one of the stretches went through a vertical walled gorge that the track steered clear of. The best view came probably about 1 km before Te Puia Lodge, a 20 bunk DOC hut. I stopped at the hut just long enough for a drink before continuing on.

        Mohaka River from a high point on the trail

I made it to the hot springs in just under 1.5 hours- not bad! What an idyllic place. Two well maintained hot tubs surrounded by decking with great camp spots nearby. On a rock wall near the hot springs were tens of faces and figurines people had carved out of soft pumice blocks. I enjoyed the solitude of the place long enough for my heart rate to return to a study calm. The waters felt great to the hard working muscles in my legs and back. After a half hour of enjoyment I again became conscious of the time- I was a long way away from my car and it would be dark in under 2 hours!

        Mangatainoka Hot Springs at the end of a long trail run

        Pumice sculptures.

I put on my wetsuit, carefully stowed everything else away in my dry bag, and hopped into my innertube. Almost immediately I experienced my first rapid - the flow was moving pretty good and there were trains of waves greater than 0.5 m high - this was going to be fun. I worked hard paddling across the calm water sections, trying my best to mind the eddy lines and make the most efficient use of the time, while still enjoying the very remote and wild surroundings. The rapids were fantastic. Some of them required careful planning on the approach, but there were no major obstacles I couldn't push through. I could help but smile with delight by the end of some of the rapids. One of them had about 3m of drop over a short interval. Often to my surprise, I remained on my tube through all the rapids.

It began raining heavily as I passed through the gorge section. It was also getting very dark...I was losing time and realizing that my pace on the river was definitely slower than my pace of the trail. Regardless, I was still making progress and my eyes were constantly adjusting to the ever dimming light. Eventually I pulled out my torch and some of the rapids were getting a bit hard to scout. I also checked my GPS. I was getting hungry and tired, but not worried or unenthused to be there. I carried on to a river flat where I knew the trail came close to the river, which seemed like a very logical place to bail on the river and get to my car in the most timely fashion.

Back to the car in the rain. I made an emergency freeze dried meal while I set up the car. I then went for a soak in the Mangatutu hot springs, which got me good and ready for bed. It was just before midnight by the time I finally crashed. It rained heavily in the night and I awoke to standing water everywhere. The river was in flood and I felt very satisfied I made the decision to run to the hot spring the previous evening. It was a fantastic trip and probably my only chance to make it to that special place. Another mid-morning soak in the Mangatutu hot springs, then I hit the road.

        Mangatutu Hot Springs

Lawyers Head Jan 13

Lawyers Head. I have had my eye on it a while. Back in 2010 I got the idea in my head that it might be a very enjoyable trip to try to traverse the rocky headlands from Aramoana to Doctors Point. I was surprised at how much I enjoyed it; it was just the right combination of climbing, jumping, swimming and dodging waves. I got to see parts of the coast rarely seen by others. The sea life was fantastic and so was the geology. After that trip I got it in my head that I wanted to traverse the entire Dunedin coast- that is from Blackhead to the south to Waikouaiti in the north. The subsequent kayaking and coastineering trips (including several I did solo) have been full of adventure, discovery and wonder. They were also a way of systematically searching the whole coast for sea caves. 

Now here in 2013 the only stretch of coast that remained was Lawyers Head, the short headland separating St Kilda and Tomahamk beaches. The headland has a unfortunate stigma to it in that it was formerly the sewage outflow for Dunedin, and has been associated with the occasional suicide. While with all the other trips I just went for it, with this one I had made two scouting trips just to be sure. All looked good so I waited for the next low swell when I could persuade someone to join.

I decided the best approach would be from the Tomahawk side. The tide was low and the sea looked good so we headed down between the sand dunes to the beach. Much of this first part of the headland had good ledges to traverse on but occasionally these gave way to steep rock climbing moves or a plop into the water between waves if the rock looked suspect. We saw across an open cove, then continued traversing. A neat feature was a two entrance sea cave that we swam and waded through then regained the rocks.

Travel was then easy until we got to the point of the headland itself. This looked tricky. Wave funneled into a depression and lapped up high against the kelp coated rock we were aiming to cross. We waited for a few minutes to study the pattern of the waves and to find the set waves we wished to avoid. I went first. It looked like we could easily get around the point before we had to start to swim so I signaled Lara to follow. Every hold we used across this stretch was biological. Kelp foot and handholds, although slippery, were effective and strong. Now we were staring at an obvious swim. It was over 100m to where we needed to get but it looked like there was a rock we could climb on for a breather about halfway. We both jumped in and swam at the same time. I instantly became envious of Lara's lifejacket and surf booties. I had heavy clog-like canyoning shoes that seemed to weigh down every kick I made. I was pretty short of breath by the time I reached the halfway rock and thankful for a few minutes rest.

We swam the second part to reach a flat-topped island where we carefully timed the waves to climb up through the net of kelp. Only a 15m swim remained between a surgy gut. We were fortunate the conditions were so calm. I went first and Lara followed. A continuous rock and bird-covered shore platform took us the rest of the way to the beach. We walked the short 10 minute walk through the golf course back to the car. The whole trip only took about an hour, but it was a very satisfying adventure with pretty good variety of coast in such a shot distance. It was also the end of a project three years in the making! Over 100 kilometers of coastline. I enjoyed every bit of it. Thanks to Lara for the company.

Zig Zag Creek Jan 8

For the last good day of weather at Haast Pass, Chucky, Pip, Joe and I set our sights on Zig Zag Creek, which was highly recommended to me as one of NZ's "must do" canyons. I was just excited to do something new in Haast Pass and not something I had been down 4 times already. We had a leisurely start setting off from Cameron Flat but we did not have far to go. The bushwhack to the top of Zig Zag was pretty thick and scrubby, part of the hazard with approaching seldom-visited canyons. We managed to find a very steep but manageable way into the canyon above its confluence, and then suited up.

The fun began right at the confluence with a graceful free-hanging abseil off of a tree. The drop ended at the side of a 15m abseil into a beautiful blue-green swimming pool. Next frothy whitewater tumbled over the edge of a fanning waterfall. I scouted so we could determine the best anchor to be able to pull the rope free. In the end the best option was a large log jammed vertically in the middle of the creek as we could get down two waterfalls from this anchor. Next was a very shallow jump, followed by a nice narrow section that ended at a c. 60m fanning waterfall over bedrock slabs.

After some more horizontal travel we reached a mellow 15m cascading waterfall. We then downclimbed around a frothy pothole and crossed over the top of a waterfall to find an easier dry bypass to this falls. Later I realized this falls could be one of the boldest slides in NZ. At its base was a large deep pool that spilled over an incredible horizon line. This was a BIG waterfall coming up! We staggered the team and waited to pull the rope out of this hanging pool, making sure we had an escape in case we couldn't safely get out of the pool to find a suitable anchor. Joe rigged a suitable tree and it was decided I would go first (the waterfall is the frontispiece).

        Epic slide???

The view from the top of this falls was pure intimidation. It was a 60m falls followed immediately by another 40m falls, but because I could not see straight down through the falls the ground appeared 200m below me. Below was billowing free-falling white water which I saw no way of avoid. Being the first one down meant I had the rope in a bag at my side to manage. If the rope was too short I would probably have to deal with it in the middle of the waterfall which would be unpleasant and potentially dangerous. I started down easily enough, but quickly realized I would have to enter the waterfall. The force was staggering! I braced with my brake hand and tried to find a position where the waterfall would not try to flip me upside down. Because I was constantly having to find the rope out of the bag, my concentration was on full alert. I gave up trying to resist the waterfall and took a hunched over fetal position as I slid down the bedrock chute of the falls. I was completely surrounded by water and because of its strength could only look down. The water sped in thick gushing drops continuously around me. The effect was mesmerizingly beautiful and is hard to describe. It was a bit like the warp speed streaking star effect in Star Wars, only in reverse, shooting away from me. For over 20m this was my view, enveloped in a small pod of terrifying powerful water with no end in sight. Just when I was convinced the rope wasn't long enough I could see the pool below. Once unhooked from the rope I swam half drowned across a pool with pulsing waves shooting out from the base of the falls. Whoa that was intense I thought. It was the perfect combination of intimidation, adrenaline and beauty which I crave. I had a quick check to make sure there was an anchor for the next drop, then yelled up at the top of my lungs and signaled for the next person to follow.

Chucky came down next no problem. But also felt pretty intimidated and was not very comfortable with Pip and Joe following. He tried to explain to them via charades that they should find another anchor that would bypass the force of the water. While I looked at him though I was a bit worried they would interpret his gestures as meaning the rope was cut or the next anchor was gone and that they should bail. My spirit sunk a little bit as I saw them pull up the rope. Here we were at this small hanging pool with hardly any escape from the cold spray of the waterfall, and no rope. We waited an hour, by the end of which I was getting a bit shivery. The rope then appeared again and Pip came down on abseil. No problem- she handled it like a pro and Joe after her as well. It all felt a bit silly waiting for that.

        The last two spectacular falls

We rigged the last waterfall and were home free. Just a short scramble back down to the river and then back up to the car. It was a very nice canyon and that second to last waterfall would have made the trip in itself. I have never been on such a wet, powerful and intimidating waterfall abseil before. A few well placed...anchors...on some of the drops would certainly make this one of the best Haast canyons. We still had plans for another week and a half of canyoning but the weather forecast was atrocious so we hung out in the rain in Wanaka for a day, then I decided I had to call it, and head back to Dunedin. Thanks to the team for a great trip.

Cross & Robinson Creeks Jan 7

We camped the night just above the banks of the very swollen Clutha River at Albert Town, hoping the rivers would be lower near Haast Pass. There were now twelve of us, all keen to get in some canyons! We drove for Haast Pass and were pleasantly delighted with the water levels - just the high side of normal flow - too high to think about doing a new canyon but just right for old favorites like Cross and Robinson.

We started with Cross Creek. Perhaps NZ's most classic canyon, virtually the whole canyon can be jumped or slide apart from one or two abseils. The jumps are all straightforward with clear drops and deep, deep pools. The canyon is pure fun and was just right for a social trip with a big group. Despite being my fourth time in the canyon, I still had a great time and found a couple new things to discover.

It was really neat to go canyoning with such a good group of diverse canyoners. The Frenchies quickly set themselves out as the bold and daring type. I marveled at their confidence in running slides on slippery surfaces. Seeing everyone's jumping styles was also quite neat. Although we were a large group we were also a confident and fast one and we reached the culvert under the road before I knew it.

After rinsing and cleaning gear for the invasive algae Didymo, Round 2: Robinson Creek. Despite being a short canyon, Robinson has some very impressive features including a big jump into a whirlpool, log jams, and "the cavern." Here a beautiful 22m abseil plunges in a dark and subterranean corner of the canyon. Mist billows out from the base of the waterfall. This cavern is definitely what sets the canyon apart in my mind. Beyond it are a couple awkward drops including one down a log jam.

        The cavern abseil

We stayed the night at Cameron Flat, excited to move on to something a bit bigger tomorrow. A highlight was watching a ridiculous film some of the Frenchies had made. It had some silly story that led up to a group of canyoners wearing ridiculous costumes running, sliding and jumping as fast as they could down the canyon to catch a bad guy. It was fantastic.

It is worth noting that less than a week later a major storm hit the area and completely stuffed Cross Creek. Now logs and debris fill many of the pools and for now at least the canyon is in poor shape. Apparently that has not happened since 1996. I feel fortunate to have had one last go before it turned. WHo can say how long it will take to recover.

Red Tarns Ditch Jan 6

This is one of those cases were the story is more impressive than the trip. I got up at the ungodly hour of 4:30am so that I could drive to Mt Cook to meet up with Chucky and the rest of the South Island canyoning crew. We had plans to do Sawyers Stream but I knew by the time I hit the Waitaki Valley that that was not going to happen. All of the dams on the Waitaki were flooding wall to wall over the top of the dams in an frothy white Niagara Falls with spray forming a low 200m high cloud. Regardless it was a warm sunny morning by the time I reached Mt Cook and I knew the gang would be keen to do something. I could see Sawyers Stream as I drove past- we were definitely not going in there today! When I arrived Richard was holding down the camp while the others were scouting a potential canyon (a ditch that is usually only a trickle).

The others returned and said that Red Tarns looked like it was probably a canyon and they could definitely see several waterfalls at the very bottom of the stream. All eight of us geared up for a first descent. Bolts, drills, slings, wetsuits, 200m of rope...this canyon was never going to know what hit it!

We went up the steep Red Tarns trail single-file like some sheep. After ten minutes of walking we crossed a small trickle and I bent down to get a drink of water. Someone joked that they hoped this wasn't our canyon and we all had a good laugh after we headed further up the hill. After another 10 minutes of walking it became obvious- that trickle was our "canyon" and we would not find anything else around. We walked back down the track and unenthusiastically bushwhacked along the creek. I got excited when I saw a small patch of actual bedrock. Eventually we reached a 10 m waterfall.

While everyone else suited up and began rigging the drop I traversed to the side and found a way to climb into the canyon a couple waterfalls below. I downclimbed all the other waterfalls to where I could see the end of the canyon and then climbed back up to the start with the others. Basically the whole canyon could be downclimbed. Trying to make the most of the absurd situation I went through the whole canyon in boxers. Going through the waterfalls was freezing but I warmed quickly once I was out of them. The best abseil was actually in the tributary creek so we found a place to climb out of the canyon and abseil back in. Then because I could, I climbed back up to retrieve the anchor and carefully climb back down. Three more downclimbs and we were out of the canyon. What shenanigans!

Then with nothing better to do we decided to walk up Sawyers Stream to the base of the canyon. Getting to the base required getting very wet and climbing through a waterfall so again I stripped down to boxers and climbed up to get photos and videos to show the others. Very impressive. It was not so much a canyon at the moment as one continuous multi-tiered waterfall. Between this trip and a previous one I have now done the full round trip of Sawyer Canyon apart from the 200m of actual canyon! Twice unlucky- bummer. Out of options in the Mt Cook area, we decided to drive on to Wanaka hoping the water levels were more reasonable there.

        Sawyers Stream. There's a canyon somewhere under all that water!