If I had to pick a middle of nowhere for California it would be Saline Valley without hesitation. It is a place few Californians have rightfully heard of. It is hard to get to, and sometimes even harder to leave.It is also a place hard to describe. Lots of expansive views and beautiful desert subtlety. The valley is roughly T-shaped with large and wide sloping bajadas descending down each of the three branches to an intermittent salt lake at their juncture. The valley has no external drainage, its waters collect and evaporate in the salt lake at 300m elevation. The western side of the valley is a dramatic fault-bounded escarpment with snow-covered peaks to 3400m capping the skyline. At the ends of the two arms of the T are the two main routes into the valley: the windy and higher North Pass road and the longer, wash-boarded and more washout-prone South Pass. Partway down the stem of the T is a large white-ish patch of travertine, and within that patch, several clusters of mature palm trees, not just marking any oases, but ones sourcing copious amounts of 42°C water. This is the refuge many enter the valley to seek. From the serene comfort of one of the well-made hot pools is an expansive view of the salt lake, sand dunes, the snowy Inyo Range, great dip slope mountains and a small cinder cone with a giant peace sign marked on it.
Saline Valley viewed from a slot canyon. Hot springs are at the oasis in white patch in the distant center. Cinder cones to right. Also note cars at lower center.
The valley has captivated many people over the years, people that have left their mark and personality on the land in that Steinbeckian sense of place. Disparate visitors include Indians, miners, gangs, jet pilots, hippies, nudists, artists and four-wheel drivers.
The valley was once home to the Timbisha tribe, who called the valley Ko'on. Then came the miners, who built a steep tramway over the Inyos to ferry borax from the salt lake back to civilization. In the 60s, nudists discovered the hot springs, installing concrete tubs and showers. The springs were also a frequent hangout of cult leader Charles Manson and his gang, he believing that one of the springs might be a bottomless pit into an underworld paradise. The valley is also a favorite training ground for the military because of its low and high elevations. To this day jets still can be seen dog fighting over the valley and occasionally buzzing the hot springs. In 1994 the valley became a part of Death Valley National Park, but the valley remained remote enough that a couple traditions were carried on- the military still flies aircraft in the valley and the hot springs are still nudist.
Getting there is not easy and takes quite a bit of gasoline. In the winter the valley can be completely shut off. Essentially you drive to Death Valley (which most would consider the middle of nowhere), then continue on rough wash-boarded dirt roads for up to four hours. There are several roads into the valley, none of them particularly easy, one or more frequently closed due to washouts or snow, and two of them used only a handful of times a year by experienced four wheel drivers. We entered via South Pass, which despite snow, was rumored to be passable.
We drove through spacious Joshua Tree forests of the high desert, then climbed up a steep gully, to a snowy Juniper forest. Near South Pass we enjoyed the far-reaching views of the Panamint dunes and Telescope Peak, before continuing down the road's snowy shadows into the valley as the day turned to pastel skies then night. We endured some of the most vicious washboards known to man before reaching the springs well into the dark. After dinner we had a great soak in the Wizard Pool as a cold wind blew over us.
Near South Pass. Panamint Dunes and Telescope Peak in background.
Saline Valley
Bat Rock Road sign
The following morning we soaked in the Crystal Pool at the lower springs, meeting a friendly older couple who planned to spend a week at the springs. Desert hippie art is everywhere from the picnic areas to the bathrooms to the pools themselves. All up, there are over 8 different pools to bathe in including a kid's pool. They are some of the best engineered hot pools I have seen anywhere. We soaked in many of them before reluctantly departing for our next adventures.
Lower springs
Upper springs
Crystal Pool
Volcano Pool
On the road out we spotted some interesting slot canyons and could not help but take the detour. We managed to make it surprisingly far up the slot (climbing about four dry falls before being stopped by a fifth) where we were rewarded with amazing views across the valley. We then checked out nearby Pat Keyes Canyon, which had some nice waterfalls and flowing water to our surprise. More to explore on a future trip hopefully.
Next on the agenda...escape Saline Valley. We chose to attempt exit via the Lippencott Road, a steep and rough expert four wheel drive road. This seldom-used road would take us straight to the Racetrack which we hoped to visit. It is the sort of road that takes over an hour to go 6 miles and I for one was very glad to be driving my Jeep and not Ryan's enormous diesel truck which followed. We both managed though, or to be more precise, our vehicles both managed. We caught sunset from the last viewpoint down into Saline Valley before crossing the pass into Death Valley.
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