Whenuakura Island. I heard about it from keen sea kayaking friends years ago and it's been on my list ever since. Unfortunately the secret has been out on this little place just in the last year or so. What a few years ago many locals would not have known of, now has its image plastered all over NZ and AA tourism advertisements.
The island is one in a chain of islands about a 15 minute paddle offshore the beach town of Whangamata on the lower east of the Coromandel. From the outside it appears exactly like its neighbors - a small island ringed by steep 20 m volcanic cliffs with rocky shores and tree coated interiors. But Whenuakura's secret is that it has a sea cave. As you enter this sea cave you may see a curious blue and green light beyond.
A few more paddle strokes and you'll realize it is a great daylight-lit void you are approaching. The locals call the island Donut Island and you now realize why. The island had an enormous sea cave chamber which collapsed to leave a cliff-lined private beach right in the middle of the island. The only way to or from this beach is from the guardian sea cave. I thought logic would place the cave on the windward and seaward side of the island when in fact it was on the relatively calm side. Needless to say I circumnavigated nearly the entire island (including some very rough seas which tossed me around and tried to get my kayak to surf them) before I found the cave entrance I was looking for and paddled out of the swell.
Inside the water is an alluring milky blue green. Great twisted tree roots and branches spiral down to the water's edge. The volcanic rocks themselves and the various pinks and purples of the algae contrast spectacularly. The secret may be out, but between the high-ish tide and the rough wind chop outside, I had the island all to myself. I photographed to heart's content, watched a crab catch a wasp, and even relaxed for a couple minutes.
It was getting late in the day though, the tide was rising and the beach was shrinking so I paddled back out into the wind and headed for the crowded shore with boats, water skiers, sea-doos and the rest of the beach-goers. Still, a very special place. I'm very glad I got to see it. I had a lovely night staying with the Bruce's - thanks to them!
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