After wrapping up our West Clear Creek hit list in record time, we drove on to Zion via Marble Canyon, the Vermillion Cliffs and the Kaibab Plateau, all new territory for Dave. We almost decided to sneak in Birch Hollow, but decided instead to secure tomorrow's canyon permit (and I had some business to try to remotely take care of). We chose Icebox Canyon, way out the west side of the park in the Kolob Canyons area near I-15. This would mean less of a driving marathon for Ryan and I was excited as this was a new area of the park for me. Dave and I camped in Ryan and I's favorite secret Zion camping spot, complete with panoramic cliff edge views, then drove to meet Ryan and Leigh at 7:30a. Icebox turned out to be a lovely canyon, not one of the "sport" canyons like many of Zion's classics, but rather a remote wilderness hike requiring a little bit of ropes to access.
No one seemed to be functioning at full capacity, and it took me an usually long time to pack up the gear. Dave and I hopped in Ryan's truck and up the hill to the trailhead we went. This area was really neat, geologically distinct from the main Zion canyon. Here the strata has been upturned at the far western edge of the Colorado Plateau and complex fracturing and jointing creates an unusual mix of canyons and promontories. We set off down the trail from Lee Pass, then veered up the long wash which would lead us to the head of Icebox Canyon. Eventually we reached the great big rockpile that led to the North Pass into Icebox. Here we made all the elevation gain for the day in one short and very hot stretch- I don't think any of us enjoyed it! Once at the pass though it was slickrock as far as the eye could see, and a stiff breeze was much appreciated.
We worked our way down the slickrock halfpipe, occasionally rigging handlines but mostly just walking down. A modest tree marked the first of two rappels down the headwall section of the canyon, into its lush bottom. It was an exceptionally beautiful and remote feeling area.
Once everyone was on the floor and the rope was pulled, it was only the simple matter of hiking down one of the longest and straightest canyons in Zion. This equated to lots of boulder scrambling with occasional poison ivy avoidance. Very soon spring water appeared in pools, and continued to gather downstream. Reflected light bounced off the sunny side of the canyon and bathed the shade in golden light. A rappel or two broke up the hiking, as did a couple interesting side canyons.
After a while the canyon bottom narrowed down to a single body width crack floored by some very cold water. One by one we rappelled into the water quickly swam through the slot (frontispiece) in heavy breathed agony, then escaped into the sun where the cold water was quickly forgotten.
Some more sandy straight hallways, then a steeper boulder scrambling corridor led us to another rappel bypassing a pool and falls. There were excellent water streaks and alcoves through this section of the canyon. The canyon then exploded in width, but the technical obstacles were not yet passed.
Presently we came to the top tier of a dramatic two-tiered waterfall. This was certainly the most photogenic section of canyon. The route description we had indicated a rough trail through the trees but the call of the second falls was too great. We were not the only ones as we found a well-engineered equalized two tree anchor suitable for the drop. From above the falls felt incredibly dramatic, the edge rolling over into oblivion and the closest thing that could be seen below was probably over 300 feet away. In the end the rappel was closer to 150 feet and actually clean and easy. The falls dropped into an amazing bedrock punchbowl. I am sure this falls would be very impressive after some heavy rains. The adjacent white-and-black streaked wall on the opposing side of the canyon is one of the most unique and beautiful I have ever seen.
We enjoyed the spot as best we could, realizing we still had a long hike out Icebox, then La Verkin Creek, then back up the trail to Lee Pass. More boulder scrambling until we reached the side canyon hosting Kolob Arch, the second longest arch in the world. Though harshly backlit, the bulky arch was still impressive. From here on trails made quicker work of the travel and soon we reached La Verkin Creek.
Though now afternoon the hiking was hot, dusty and sweaty. We could not resist the call of La Verkin Creek where the trail was about to turn away. Fortunately we picked the perfect spot with a wonderful set of falls and a swimming hole. The water temperature was absolutely perfect. We tried to keep our heads under as long as possible, it was that good. Refreshed, we finally submitted to the long slog back up to the truck at Lee Pass. Despite a somewhat late start, we made good time round trip. It seemed like I was not the only one with tender feet by the end of the long hike. It was one of the more unique canyon hikes I have done in Zion. Somewhat low on sport but high on wilderness and beauty. No complaints from me. The hike also helped cement my idea that this would be the perfect place to end the Hayduke Trail.
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