Seven Teacups is easily one of the most classic canyons in California, yet somehow the opportunity to visit it eluded me until now. At high flow it can be a challenging adventure, but at low flow it is a natural waterpark. Seven Teacups is a short section of Dry Meadow Creek just before it reaches the Kern River 2 miles up from the bottom of the super classic Class IV-V Forks of the Kern whitewater run, supposedly one of the best wilderness runs in the U.S. Flow in Dry Meadow was quite low, and exceptionally low in the Kern River for this time of year (250 cfs). This didn't bother me one bit because I had a theory: at that flow, what is usually a terrifying and dangerous kayak/raft run should still be just barely navigable by Alpacka packraft. After running the Teacups I would packraft out the Kern!
After draining a vast plateau area, Dry Meadow Creek funnels steeply over granite bedrock on its final 400ft drop to the Kern River. The Seven Teacups starts with a textbook example of a rapid-fire pothole chain: waterfall, pothole, waterfall, pothole, etc, seven times (many excellent jumps or slides). From there it continues on through a more technical section with larger waterfalls that most be rappelled, and a final slide into the Kern just below a Class IV rapid.
Sara and I got a late-ish escape from Riverside and it was about 2:45p when we finally were packed and set out on the trail. The approach skirts just above the Kern for most of the distance which provided a perfect opportunity to scout the rapids. Although disturbingly low flow, I could see a packraft route through every major rapid I could see which gave me high hopes for the exit. Out late approach meant we passed several groups of fishermen, backpackers, and canyoners heading out (it was Memorial Day weekend after all. We also passed a large group of canyoners camped just opposite Dry Meadow Creek and spotted the last canyoners (apart from us) exiting the canyon. After a little back and forth deciding where to cross the river and where to climb up the opposite hillside, we suited up, waded across, and found the foot trail easily enough. After a steamy 15 minutes (we kept our wetsuits on), we were finally at the start of the canyon.
Although we were a little rushed for time and it was more first time to the canyon (and so had to approach jumps and slides with caution), we had a great time jumping, sliding, rapping, and swimming through this beautiful canyon. It all seemed to go by in a flash. I could see how it would be worth camping nearby and lapping the canyon multiple times.
Soon the teacups ended and larger waterfalls became the standard. Still each one of these were different and scenic in their own ways. A highlight was the Toilet Bowl, a perfect pothole with a narrow escape. Also interesting was a narrow corridor towards the end that I could see becoming a dangerous hydraulic at higher flow.
Once back at the river we re-crossed and I set about getting the packraft setup. Since I was floating out I offered to carry most the gear, leaving Sara with a light pack for the way out. I would do my best to stay within sight of her on the trail but I quickly realized I could easily outpace her if I didn't periodically stop to eddy out. The run exceeded my expectations. Certainly exciting enough to keep me entertained and challenged but not to the point where I was fearing any mishap. At this flow the Class IV rapids were realistically probably only Class III, but they still were great fun. I only made one critical mistake resulting in a flip. Being alone and late in the day I opted to portage Carson Falls, the only solid Class V on the run. Even at this low flow it looked impressive: a boulder garden above to destroy careful positioning, a solid 4 ft+ vertical drop, and a seething series of holes and rocks to maneuver on the exit.
The rest of the run went smoothly and I made it to the Johnsonville bridge with the very last bit of light. The trip was exceptionally fun and I would do it again in an instant. It was so satisfying to run the Kern in my packraft and I am already craving more technical packrafting.
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