Well we found the Hoback River to be running a very low 400cfs but it seemed enough for a pleasant stress-free 7mi Class II (-III) float from Stinking Springs Bridge to Hoback Junction. To ensure success we parked our car at Hoback Junction near the exit and stuck our thumbs up just upstream of the traffic circle. It took a long five minutes with many cars passing before a young carload of park employees off for a climb stopped to cram us in. Thanks to them we got prompt deliver to the appropriately named Stinking Springs Bridge (with a copious volume of sulfurous springs entering the river nearby). Boats were inflated, I put on my wetsuit (in hindsight the latter was overkill), and we scooted off.
It was not a particularly noteworthy float but nice enough, particularly to have it nearly completely to ourselves. We passed many monstrous cabin/lodge hybrids along the river and saw ducks and birds of prey. The rapids were quite spaced out and mostly riffles at this flow but nevertheless a good packraft re-immersion for Sara. The last few miles bedrock began emerging from the river channel and the walls gave a slightly more gorge-like appearance. In about three relaxing hours we reached Hoback and I fetched the car. We had lunch in Hoback where we discovered the joys of Hoback Market's homemade alcoholic slushies. A refreshing finish to a fun morning.
We drove on to Jackson Hole in search of a bear canister for backpacking. We found Jackson Hole to be exactly that: a hole. From our quick drive and walk through town in search of a bear canister, I can honestly say it is one of the very worst places I've ever been. We visited or called five "outdoor" stores, none of which had even considered stocking a bear canister, as this would take up crucial room for overpriced Patagonia gear that tourists can't live without. We ran down the crowded sidewalks, past gourmet food stores and jewelry stores that sell tacky (expensive!) buffalo diamond pendants and thousand dollar cowboy boats, and through the arguably tackier archways in town made of thousands of deer antlers. Rot in hell I say. We escaped as quick as we could, flipped off the rear view mirror, and drove on to Grand Teton National Park.
Grand Teton NP was overly crowded too so we opted for a quick drive through and then an escape to the Teton Wilderness. Perhaps I am being unfair but GTNP seemed a bit overrated: lakes, decent peaks, tiny glaciers, lots of people. If you removed Grand Teton Peak it could be any one of a number of mountain ranges in CA or NV. I did find it interesting how all the tall and craggy peaks were in front of the divide, and I bet Grand Teton is worth a climb. Anyway we opted for the quick tourist drive-through and headed for the pleasantly unpeopled Buffalo Fork of the Snake River outside the park.
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