After a remarkably dry week in Kauai, 24 hours of well-timed heavy rain hit Wailaelae, soaking the swamp and swelling the headwaters that feed Waimea Canyon. The rain gauge data at the summit as well as the stream gauge near Waimea town both looked great (950cfs our run would be in the end) so Jeff and I were both a go to packraft the elusive Grand Canyon of the Pacific. Because of the hassle involved in getting a whitewater kayak to Hawaii, I suspect it is a lonely run- frequently in condition, rarely done. This was said to be an excellent kayak run and was our top wet weather priority for Kauai. Nine miles of fun Class III whitewater and a two mile flatwater runout back to Waimea town. As far as I know the Waimea has not been descended by packraft.
Sara dropped Jeff and I off at the top of the Kukui Trail, the only reasonable access to the canyon bottom, early and bright. It was still raining in the headwaters but here there was only the lightest mist and dainty fog clinging to the hillsides. The landscape was stunning with the early morning shadows. The analogy to the Grand Canyon certainly seemed apt, despite the smaller scale. The upcanyon views in particular were fantastic. The trail provided surprisingly easy access- we were at the Waimea in less than an hour, no root clinging necessary, the mud the right amount of tacky for grip.
The first sight of the river looked good. Wanting to gain a bit more length, we followed the old road upcanyon, crossed the river at a waist deep crossing, then traversing along the left bank. About 500m below Koai'i Stream progress slowed and we decided to suit up and inflate. We ferried across the river and walked the road upstream a bit more to get a little more action. Tannin stained whitewater, lush vegetation, red cliffs, wispy fog. Time to paddle!
The river was surprisingly steep prompting one or two quick scouts before we realized the river was comfortably read-and-run, at least at the flows we had. The river was fundamentally pool-drop in its character, but also notable was the varying channel widths. When wide the river would turn into a barely navigable garden of shallow boulders (more water would have been better). When narrow it would be a roaring ride through wave trains and holes (more water would still have been welcome). The rapids were nice and long, often approaching a quarter-mile in length before ending at a calm brown pool.
Though the scenery in the headwaters above our put-in is arguably more dramatic with taller cliffs and towering waterfalls, the middle reach had much varied scenery to offer with lush vegetation clinging to red cliffs and trees forming overhanging corridors scenically enveloping the river. We appreciated the rare signs of humanity, save the omnipresent helicopter tours overhead. Few river features posed a challenge (I stayed upright the whole time), but it was all excellent fun and hours of smiles. One of the better drops and holes was just above the power station dam, which we couldn't help but take several runs a piece on. The dam itself was also cleanly runnable.
Three frame sequence below:
The further downstream, the sunnier the day, the lower the annual rainfall, the drier the vegetation. We started to see cacti clinging to the cliffs. All of this led to a more open feeling to the river and surrounds. More read-and-run enjoyment continued. We were starting to wonder how much river we had left! The photos and videos speak more effectively than my words.
Eventually we passed a couple bridges and houses at about the same time the Class III ended, telling us that we were nearing the end. We floated out the last couple slow miles to Lucy Wright Park in Waimea. The beach showers provided a convenient cleanup station. We packed up, texted Sara, and walked to town for some food and shave ice. Our trip was well timed as a torrential downpour started within about 20 minutes, which we appreciated from the overhang of the L&L.
Soon we were reunited with Sara who had a nice morning hiking around the Alkali Swamp. With some day still left, we went to see how cranking Wailua Falls was (very!) and to take the root clinging climb down to the pool's edge to appreciate the force of mist and thundering roar.
Continuing north, we stopped in at Queen's Bath in Princeville, which was looking dramatic under the stormy skies and higher seas. Sara and I appreciated being temporarily dry while Jeff had fun getting blasted by the whitewash of waves.
We ended the day camping at Anini Beach. A good day all around.
Thanks to Sara and Jeff for a very memorable run through a special place.
No comments:
Post a Comment