I took the opportunity for a post-conference detour to check out a semi-hidden Arizona gem, Fossil Creek. A curious carbonate spring in a region of volcanics emerges in the desert to create a remarkably lush eden. The spring runs year round with a base flow of about 40 cfs (what it was when we were there). The springs emit clear blue-green waters that cascade for several miles over a series of travertine terraces, making it a unique creeking experience in all the US. Ideally I would have liked to have hit it at around triple its present flow (120 cfs or so) but hoped base flow would be tolerable enough for packrafting. Only one way to find out.
The road into Fossil Creek was a pretty nightmarish bumpy, washboarded 20 miles, made worse by the slow grind through the dark. We got in late to the Childs Dispersed Camping Area on the Verde River, sleeping well beneath the mesquite despite the need of other campers to shoot off firearms. In the morning we took the short one mile stroll upriver past angry bulls to Verde Hot Springs, site of an interesting old 1920s era resort, now ruins with two riverside bathing pools. Interesting graffiti and art adorn the ruins offering half-wise words to contemplate while soaking. The wall-lined pool was a particularly nice touch to get out of the sun's wrath. We ate breakfast in the "outside" pool and had the "inside" pool to ourselves for a good chunk of time before strolling back to drive to the Fossil Creek entrance gate for the day's adventure.
We parked at our assigned parking spot near the Fossil Creek Bridge (take out for the classic 3 mile Fossil Creek run) and took a quick walk down to see the water. The first glance was not completely satisfying- this flow would be borderline packraftable and at a minimum scratchy and bumpy from the feel of the travertine pouroffs. The water was relatively warm but seemed cool enough that a wetsuit would be worthwhile. Shrugging shoulders, we packed for the possibility of packrafting (worse case we'd have a nice hike carrying extra gear) and started walking the road with our thumbs out. The second vehicle, a shiny truck, stopped for us in about 5 minutes time and we climbed in the back for the bumpy two mile drive to the top parking lot. We hiked the trail about one mile to the prominent 20 ft falls marking the top of the classic section, scouting the creek every time the trail veered close to it. We had a look above the falls and contemplated hiking to the spring, but decided to inflate at the pool below. I had a good long look at the falls itself before declaring it a very packraft-unfriendly drop. A few dudes showed up as we readied and looked on with mild amusement. We played around in the gap behind the falls and I couldn't resist a jump before we left the people behind and paddled downstream.
The obstacles started right away and seemed to be about a stone throw apart, keeping us on alert. The usual sequence was paddling across a crystal clear pool to a reed-lined creek that turned a corner to present a horizonline (or two) over a travertine dam. I approached with caution, making a quick decision of whether the falls could be cleanly run or was bony enough that I would bail to spare my boat some scratches. At nearly the same instance I tried to communicate the drop to Sara awaiting the report upstream. When the drops seemed large we stopped to scout. Most of the bigger drops were good to run but some of the smaller ones we had to portage at this flow. The overall concern of the day was boat damage not fear of the obstacles (for me at least, Sara seemed to find some excitement).
Things proceeded a little slow initially with this drop by drop approach. The inevitable scratching sound of travertine scraping my boat bottom sent cringes up my spine but overall these were not as bad and frequent as I thought they would be.
Powerhouse Falls (frontispiece and below) was a particularly nice falls with a clean double drop on the right line. Sara gave it a pass which meant I got to run it twice. From here we had an additional one mile to go. Motivated to do the whole thing, we made good time through this section despite being the least clean part of the run.
We reached the familiar sight of the bridge a little after 3p. One last swim and we were ready to take off with a lengthy drive to go back to Riverside. About half way down the rutted road we ran into a couple that managed to drive their sedan into a ditch, stuck. It took some thought and effort but we were able to get them back on their way.
At this flow Fossil Creek was pretty gimmicky as a packraft trip but regardless stunningly beautiful and a place I would visit again. I'm particularly keen to see the three mile between the spring and the falls we started at. It sounds like there are several more very nice features along the creek. Thanks to Sara for use of her car and the company.
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