We awoke to a very warm morning in Djúpivogur. One of the curiosities of Iceland summer seems to be a very weak diurnal pattern where shifting weather plays a bigger role since the sun does not set. It was foggy when we turned in and warm and clear when we awoke. We had a pleasant sunny drive around five of the eastern fjords (with some particularly impressive stacked basalt flows and snowy peaks) before cutting across a long glaciated saddle into the town of Egilsstaðir, which seemed to be the first port of call for everyone arriving from the ferry. We gassed and grocered while marveling at the crazy number of custom overlanding vehicles, some that seemed built to survive Antarctica or armageddon.
We drove the dirt road to the Stuðlagill Canyon overlook, notable for its hike to a basalt column gorge. Between its color and rapids the river looked excellent; if we had more time I am sure it would have been a great packraft trip. We drove onward past the tourists down a miserably dusty road that past through some of the most desolate lunar landscapes we saw in all of Iceland. The dust got EVERYWHERE and seemed to come up through the floorboards to completely coat the interior of the car. We drove down the spur to Hafrahvammagljúfur Canyon, a particularly impressive vertical walled gorge cut into what otherwise would be a rolling glacier carved valley. The sight was impressive but I was left wondering how much more dramatic it would have been before the dam and hydroscheme that diverted its river elsewhere. The milky green water were pretty but I could imagine the ever-changing rockfall rapids it would have formerly had.
We drove down the opposite spur to Laugavallalaug Hot Pool, probably my favorite of those we visited in Iceland. A hot stream cascades over a travertine mound and plunges into a slightly muddy pool at its base, then other pools, then the river. We seemed to time our visit pretty well between people leaving and later arriving as we left, so had the spot nearly to ourselves most of the time.
After a rejuvenating soak, it was more dust back out the way we came. We stopped again at Stuðlagill Canyon; this time I flew the drone for a few quick shots since I knew we would not have time to hike along the river. Once again I dreamed of packrafting it.
The next stretch of the Ring Road to Myvatn was particularly beautiful in its starkness. We stopped very briefly at the roadside Hverir geothermal area for some fumeroles and mud pots, then drove on through Myvatn for the campground in the small town of Laugar. This campground served us well to regroup as we did laundry, deconstructed the entire car, and cleaned everything of dust.
We saw neat things this day, but it was largely a frustrating compromise, driving past many interesting stops and detours and places worthy of longer visits so that we could get caught up on errands and fit in two river trips (Lóni before and Suðurá after). There was just too much to see and do.
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