I had not been out to Santa Cruz Island since grad school when we were very fortunate to have a professor arrange a very memorable overnight trip to Christi Ranch on the seldom-visited Nature Conservancy side of the island. I remember the excitement of driving the old military-style jeeps through the island's interior, the incredibly diverse and super interesting geology, and surfing on the lonesome Christi Beach. This would be a two-night trip camping at Scorpion Ranch on the NPS quarter of the island. We would rent a two-person kayak and bring two packrafts to explore some of the neighboring coast. I knew the famous Painted Cave would be too far to visit but my guidebook author friend was kind enough to send me the draft second edition of the sea caves of Santa Cruz Island so that I could mark off some of the caves closer to Scorpion. We drove to Ventura the night before the trip, plunging into misty clouds as we crossed the Santa Monicas; my brain was thinking summertime heat and I packed fairly lightly for the summertime fog that can linger in this area and especially on the offshore Channel Islands.
The ferry ride across the channel was smooth. We redirected our course several times to intercept pods of multiple types of dolphins but still made it to the island by mid-morning. Once unloaded we carried our gear inland 0.5 miles on the valley road, a stretch we would be walking many times over our short trip. Once our campspot was finally vacated a little after 11am we set up, had lunch, and then headed down to the water. After the kids had their fill of snorkeling Scorpion Beach we got in kayak and packrafts and paddled eastward towards Scorpion Rock. The ocean was nice and calm, allowing us to loop in and out of all the sea caves along the way, including at least four throughtrip caves. We stopped at a little beach for a while and then looped around Scorpion Rock before returning. Back at camp we soon realized the miniaturized island foxes were ubiquitous around the campsites. They were awfully cute. After dinner we decided to walk the Cavern Point loop which provided great cliff top views towards Anacapa Island(s) and the coast westward as well. I particularly enjoyed some of the blushing native dudleyas clinging to cliffs.
The second day I had planned a fairly ambitious solo packraft-hiking loop of the eastern side of the island. I was to paddle from Scorpion west 5 miles to Chinese Harbor, hike 5 miles over the island to Smugglers Cove, then paddle an additional 4 miles back to Scorpion. Before I even left the tent though I noted the strong winds and was already doubting whether I would achieve my loop. Despite the early hour the view from the beach told me I'd face strong headwinds and a less than stellar swell but I set off to see what would happen. There was definitely enough of a swell that I was not able to get close to any of the sea caves. I paddled continuously as a moments break meant considerable lost progress as I drifted back towards my origin. The cliffs and coast were neat enough but progress was slow and the topsy turviness was starting to get to me mentally. I pulled into a small covelet at Potato Harbor and stretched my legs. It took me nearly 2 hours to go 3 miles. I spotted a doable scrambling route that would ultimately get me up onto the island's trail system and called it: I had enough of the sea and the subpar conditions.
The little beach was actually rather neat with some interesting Monterey chert cobbles and exploring nearby I spotted some in situ fossils. The harbor was so much calmer than out around the point it was tempting to keeping paddling so I had to remind myself several times of the unpleasantness.
I rolled up the packraft and switched over to hiking mode to climb up some dryfalls. I detoured up the headland near Potato rock first to catch a view up the coast, then worked my way through the surprisingly dense knee-deep vegetation upwards towards the trail. It was only about 0.3 miles and 700 feet of elevation gain but it took me about an hour to find my way upward. On the way I saw some nice clusters of native succulents and some particularly interesting pincushion-like lichen.
Once at the trail I had to decide between turning inland for more hiking or downward back to camp. Everything higher in elevation than my current position was socked into clouds and so I opted to hike back with the idea that perhaps I could go for a run later on when it might be clearer. It was an easy downhill jaunt to the overlook for Potato Harbor, a seemingly very popular hike on the day. After quick photos I continued on down the trail back to the campsite. I caught the others walking back from the beach and hung out for a bit in camp, which was being patrolled by some very cute island foxes.
Not content with my day's adventure cut short, I wanted to go for a run-hike up Scorpion Canyon looping along the Montañon Ridge Trail. With only my camera and phone, I made good pace initially pace the campground, the ascent out of Scorpion Canyon, and along the volcanic slopes looking towards Smugglers Cove and Anacapa Island. As I began to enter the clouds and the terrain became rougher near the ridgeway I found myself stopping for photos constantly and shifted to a hiking gait.
The fast moving wispy clouds swept over the narrow ridge. The stunted vegetation coated in lichens and mosses seemed to suggest this sort of weather was standard and I found it a really intriguing microcosm contrasting to the dry and barren landscape less than a half mile away. The ridge section lasted less than a mile but felt wild and remote along this narrow path dropping away into clouds to both sides.
Once off the ridge the trail veered down grassy slopes of degraded marine terraces that efficiently dropped elevation. I soon regained the section of trail I was on earlier and switched back to a partial run. I was rather hungry and looking forward to dinner at this point. I had a quick look out to sea and the Potato Harbor spur junction- the sea was now something much fiercer!
Back at camp I made dinner and settled in. I didn't get plan A but the 8 mile run-hike took about 2.5 hours and gave me a chance to see some more of this surprisingly varied island. The next morning we packed up camp and moved our gear down to the shore for the later 4pm boat pickup. We chose to spend most of the middle of the day kayaking a little further eastward from Scorpion, stopping at a small beachlet busy with sea urchins and garibaldi and snorkeled until we were content.
The boat ride back was without incident other than some more dolphin detours. Though some of the adventure was cut short it was very nice to have an escape from the heat and see some unique southern California coastline. Thanks to Heather for masterminding the trip and making it happen.
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