On our drive out to the Vermillion Cliffs we got the lottery results that Keith and Kari had won us permit spots in Pine Creek Canyon but missed out on other things we applied for like the Subway. This seemed like our best option at a canyon to wrap up our trip and so I released the reservations for Echo and Keyhole canyons that I had held. Somewhat annoyingly we would have to grab this permit in person, forcing us to drive through the park to camp on the west side and then show up at the backcountry desk before it opened in the morning. The desk ranger mentioned that Pine Creek was unusually dry with only one pool to swim and said that if he did it he would go without a wetsuit, useful intel.
With the hurdle of the slow desk line out of the way we were on to our next one: the shuttle. Pine Creek has arguably the easiest hitching possibility of any canyon in Zion with the exit being at a prominent scenic pullout on the highway in Zion Canyon and the entrance being only a few miles away immediately beyond the road tunnel. Against my intuition Keith convinced me to pre-set the shuttle by dropping them off, parking at the exit, and then attempting to hitch. It was probably a combination of bad luck and the demographics of people getting an early start on their driving but I struggled for over an hour to get a hitch. Many cars that stopped had every seat filled with kids. Others with space said no even when I explained the simplicity of my needs. I was nearly about to give up and drive back through the shuttle to tell Keith and Kari to go on without me when I tried an older couple in a motorhome. It took them a minute or so and several rounds of questions I had to answer but against what seemed to be their better judgment they gave me a ride, saving the day. It turned out they were a retiree couple from Riverside and so we had plenty to talk about on the short jaunt.
Keith and Kari were quite relieved to see me finally appear and we immediately started down the canyon, them in wetsuits and me hoping for the best in pants and a shirt. Unfortunately right as we reached the first rappel another larger group appeared from behind and seemed to be on a mission. I still had to put on my harness as they rigged the first rappel. It was all a much more stressful rush than it needed to be. Happily they recognized that we might be faster and let us rappel on. We felt somewhat rushed through the next couple downclimbs and rappels as their voices were nipping at our heels, but finally when we reached the Great Cathedral rappel we put them behind us for good and we were able to enjoy the canyon finally.
We missed the peak golden light in the Great Cathedral (frontispiece) and indeed I had never seen the pool below so dry, but the aura of this mysterious enclosed grotto with its double archway chamber was not much diminished. Onward we worked through some of the best hallways and dark narrows. I was cognizant of several stretches where I remembered length swims on previous trips instead of the current sandy strolls. As usual the photos do little justice to the true effect of the plays of downward reflecting light. After an open hallway with large chockstones I peered down the next drop...this must be the swim! Though I was first down the rappel Kari kindly was the first to probe the waters. With some creative clinging I managed to avoid swimming but did have several seconds of deep wading to shock my system. The water could have been much colder and almost immediately once I exited I resumed a comfortable body temperature.
We could hear the roar of the vehicles through the tunnel windows high up to our left as the canyon opened up in its final two drop descent to the spring grotto at its end. As Keith and Kari removed their wetsuits we ended up coming upon a very large group in front of us. Very kindly they let us use their rope on the final rappel and play through, which honestly probably saved us an hour of backing in the sun.
The final 100ft freehanging rappel into the spring-fed grotto at the end of the canyon was every bit as spectacular as I remembered it and easily one of the best rappels in Zion. It always feels like much longer than 100 ft from the top!
Once down we took off the harnesses and I sipped the spring before our warm hike down the canyon. Easily the most strenuous and challenging part of the canyon, we wormed our way over, under and around the megaboulders choking the canyon. Going was slow but I led the charge and eventually the boulders gave way to easier walking and eventually our exit trail up to the road. Though we passed several nice pools along the way, the final pool was too good to pass up before hiking out so Keith and I each had a few rounds of cliff jumps before we hiked up the steep footpath to gain the road.
Despite the backcountry desk and hitching shenanigans we finished early enough to make a final push on home. Coyote Buttes North was tops but it was nice to tack on a revisit to a Zion classic and I was glad Keith and Kari both had a great time.
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